What started out as an interesting day of getting lost temporarily on the RER, turned out to be a great sightseeing day where we definitely pushed it a bit - but it was all worth it in the end. Here is a link to our original itinerary which included catching RER C to Metro Invalides, walk through Esplandade des Invalides to Musee de l'Armee, then across the street to Musee Rodin, and finishing off (time permitting) to Musee d'Orsay. This was our actual itinerary. Well, we get to the train station alright, but took the train in the wrong direction. Easy fix right? Just go on the other side of the tracks and catch the train going the other way. Apparently some RERs are set up such that ALL trains on a given platform head in one direction. Long story short, we ended up at Gare d'Austerlitz which turns out to be one GHETTO station. From the platform we take the only exist we could find that lead to a dimly lit series of 12 switchbacks with graffiti literally covering 95% of the walls. By the time we get to Musee de l'Armee we were almost 2 hours behind schedule. We made the most of the day by staying at Musee de l'Armee for 3 hours and took advantage of the Louvre being open to 10pm that day.
Musee de L'Armee (4.5 of 5)
A common theme that you will notice with many Paris museums is that the ground that they are built on are worth visiting even if you don't manage to make it in. This museum is no exception as the gardens surrounding the monster complex that houses Napolean's tomb is majestically lined with lime trees as you approach from Metro Invalides. In the UK, there are 5 separate museums that make up the Imperial War Museums. Imagine if all that content was in one place? This is what Musee de L'Armee offers to its patrons. A stunning collection of the history of war from ancient times right up until WWII. I was a huge fan of the Churchill Museum's high tech Mission Impossible feel and France's answer is an entire basement level dedicated to Charles De Gaulle where it is just as high tech straight from the Minority Report. In the North side, there is of course the tomb of Napolean along with other French war heroes encased inside a golden chapel. Thoroughly impressed overall and should make it on anyone's visit list if you have any interest in the art of war.
Musee du Louvre (5 of 5)
One caveat with this review, we didn't get a chance to see the whole museum. We only saw 1/2 of one wing (Denon) and will be back for more for sure. I'm confident that my rating won't change here though. The Louvre is a spectacle in itself where the architecture of the old (the 16th century palace) and the new (glass pyramid) meet in harmony on a grand scale. According to Rick, the Louvre is Europe's oldest, biggest, greatest, and second most visited (after the Vatican). The kids were getting VERY TIRED at this point, but Chloe had enough energy for one treasure hunt... the Mona Lisa! The info packet they give you actually point out the major displays on the map and Chloe found all 8 of them, with the final achievement being the mystery woman herself. It's funny, you are allowed to take pictures in the Louvre, as long as there is no flash. At the Mona Lisa, nobody seems to listen (or care) since it looked like a Paparazzi mob. Forget about whether you like art or not, it's just great to be part of the great vibe and energy of the place.
2011-06-10
The Paris Museum Pass
A quote courtesy of travel nerd and my idol Rick Steves that made me laugh:
"In Paris there are two classes of sightseers - those with a Paris Museum Pass, and those who stand in line."
What is it?
It is a pass that allows entry to more than 60 different museums and attractions in and around Paris including the Louvre, Versailles, Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, etc...)
Why buy it?
The #1 reason to purchase a museum pass is to bypass the lines to purchase tickets... since your pass is your ticket. Often there are separate entrances that are less crowded and are especially for pass holders. You spend less time waiting, and more time sightseeing. Also, just by having the pass encourages you to take in more sights than you would normally pass on since they are included.
How much does it cost?
They come in 2, 4, and 6 day quantities that cost 35, 50, and 60 Euros respectively. The pass is valid for a block of time starting on the first day you use it. To make you money back, using an average entry fee of 7 Euros you'd have to see 2.5 (for 2 day), 1.75 (for 4 day), and 1.42 (for 6 day) museums per day. Regardless of the math though, I'd gladly pay a little extra to not stand a couple hours waiting to get in to an attraction only to be disappointed afterwards.
Who should buy it?
Worth it for adults, not worth it for kids under 18 since they are free at almost every attraction. If you are an E.U. citizen, this age is extended to under 26. On that note, if you have young kids like us, be wary about getting the 6 day pass since it is the best value. First ask yourself whether you can handle 6 straight days of museums without taking a break for a day to shop at a market or something else. If you pass that, ask the same about your kids. We're opting to purchase two 4 day passes that we will use over two different periods of our stay.
"In Paris there are two classes of sightseers - those with a Paris Museum Pass, and those who stand in line."
What is it?
It is a pass that allows entry to more than 60 different museums and attractions in and around Paris including the Louvre, Versailles, Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, etc...)
Why buy it?
The #1 reason to purchase a museum pass is to bypass the lines to purchase tickets... since your pass is your ticket. Often there are separate entrances that are less crowded and are especially for pass holders. You spend less time waiting, and more time sightseeing. Also, just by having the pass encourages you to take in more sights than you would normally pass on since they are included.
How much does it cost?
They come in 2, 4, and 6 day quantities that cost 35, 50, and 60 Euros respectively. The pass is valid for a block of time starting on the first day you use it. To make you money back, using an average entry fee of 7 Euros you'd have to see 2.5 (for 2 day), 1.75 (for 4 day), and 1.42 (for 6 day) museums per day. Regardless of the math though, I'd gladly pay a little extra to not stand a couple hours waiting to get in to an attraction only to be disappointed afterwards.
Who should buy it?
Worth it for adults, not worth it for kids under 18 since they are free at almost every attraction. If you are an E.U. citizen, this age is extended to under 26. On that note, if you have young kids like us, be wary about getting the 6 day pass since it is the best value. First ask yourself whether you can handle 6 straight days of museums without taking a break for a day to shop at a market or something else. If you pass that, ask the same about your kids. We're opting to purchase two 4 day passes that we will use over two different periods of our stay.
Review on the Run: Disneyland Paris (3.5 of 5)
Day 24 was one that Chloe has been looking forward to for a long time. From the beginning when we asked Chloe what she thought about going to Europe, she wasn't a fan. I told her that in Paris they have a Disneyland there and that if we go, then we'd take her. Consider it mission completed in keeping our promise. Truth be told though, I was pretty excited too. Disney strikes a chord with many people - both positive and negative. Call me brainwashed, but I love Disney. With Paris out of the way, it makes it now 3 of 5 Disney parks I've been to. Only Tokyo and Hong Kong stand in my way!
Disneyland Paris (3.5 of 5)
A couple of caveats with this rating - it's really a comparison to both the Magic Kingdom in Orlando (which would get a 4.5 of 5) and the original Disneyland in Anaheim (which gets a 5 of 5). These 3 parks are more or less the same - so much so that you could probably take one map and successfully navigate yourself easily in each park. So why the discrepancy? Well, you know how you have that 2nd cousin that is sort of the black sheep of the family and tries to emulate you in every way but falls short in every area? Well this sums up Disneyland Paris when compared to Disneyland in Anaheim. Not that the one in Paris is bad - its just that the one in Anaheim is really just outstanding that it's a tough act to follow. Magic Kingdom almost did it but hasn't quite reached there, while Paris lags behind. At Disneyland Paris, there is 2 themeparks (Disneyland Paris and Walt Disney Studios) and a shopping complex (Disney Village). This strategy is mirrored across their other theme parks as well. Paris though lagged behind in the following areas:
Disneyland Paris (3.5 of 5)
A couple of caveats with this rating - it's really a comparison to both the Magic Kingdom in Orlando (which would get a 4.5 of 5) and the original Disneyland in Anaheim (which gets a 5 of 5). These 3 parks are more or less the same - so much so that you could probably take one map and successfully navigate yourself easily in each park. So why the discrepancy? Well, you know how you have that 2nd cousin that is sort of the black sheep of the family and tries to emulate you in every way but falls short in every area? Well this sums up Disneyland Paris when compared to Disneyland in Anaheim. Not that the one in Paris is bad - its just that the one in Anaheim is really just outstanding that it's a tough act to follow. Magic Kingdom almost did it but hasn't quite reached there, while Paris lags behind. At Disneyland Paris, there is 2 themeparks (Disneyland Paris and Walt Disney Studios) and a shopping complex (Disney Village). This strategy is mirrored across their other theme parks as well. Paris though lagged behind in the following areas:
- It is a physically smaller theme park without many attractions (Mickey Toontown for example) than their US counterparts.
- The vibe created in the States is truly impressive with excitement all-around. Here it is extremely laid back which brings me to...
- The workers here just don't seem to be nearly as attentive to visitors and part of the "well oiled machine" that is characteristic of the the States.
- The show at the end, yes the big finale that we stayed to watch, was a huge disappointment. No fire works, just a couple of people singing and dancing for 10 minutes and Au Revoir.
- The Walt Disney Studios (modeled after the park of the same name in Orlando) is probably 1/2 the size.
- Disney Village is just that... a Village compared to Downtown Disney in the States.
- The place is in top notch condition since the park is relatively new. In Anaheim you can definitely tell that some things are showing their age.
- I got to experience some rides I didn't have a chance to go on in the States and they were great. The look on Chloe's face after Peter Pan's Flight was priceless and exploring Adventure Isle was a lot of fun.
- Perhaps we picked the right day to go, but the crowds and lines weren't bad at all.
- It was super easy to get to via RER A straight from Paris that takes you 100m away from the front entrance.
It was great to be a kid again. I won't have to wait too long though since we are heading to Parc Asterix next week - which should be a more French experience.
2011-06-08
Review on the Run: Sacre Coeur (4 of 5), Notre Dame Cathedral (5 of 5)
Now that we are in Paris - a lot more reviews should be on the way. Day 23 was a beautiful day and we wanted to make the most of it by spending it outside. For those that don't know, we are staying on Ile Saint Louis which is a man made island located right on the Siene. Next to it is the "other" more busy island of Ile de la Cite, home to the Notre Dame Cathedral. Since we had to take the Metro at Cite to get to Montmartre anyways, we took the opportunity to go to Notre Dame before heading out to see Sacre Coeur. Here is a link to our itinerary.
Sacre Coeur (4 of 5)
How to repent for all the liberal sins of the French after getting a beatdown by the Germans and Prussians? Build a massive cathedral on the highest hilltop! It took 44 years (1875 - 1919) to build this behemoth and is situated on top of Paris' highest hill (Montmartre). Upon arrival, Sacre Coeur makes a great first impression. You can climb up the steps and series of switchbacks of Monmartre towards Sacre Coeur, but we took the funiculaire (gondola) instead since we had kids. If you don't have kids, I'd highly recommend making the walk up. Now it is impossible not to draw comparisons to St. Paul's in London since it is the same style. In this respect, Sacre Coeur failed to impress me on many fronts. The condition of the place is not nearly as mint condition (even though it is newer) than St.Paul's. The Crypt, for which they charge, is a waste of time and money. Save your 4 Euros and skip it. It feels more like a Costco warehouse as opposed to the Da Vinci codish atmosphere at St.Paul's. There are two things however that Sacre Coeur does excel in though. First off, Montmartre is truly a great park. Beware though that this it is a seedy area around here with aggressive sales people. Second is the view from the top of the dome. Pay your 4 Euros to climb the 300 steps to the top for the best view of Paris bar none. Some may argue the Eiffel Tower is king but for the lines and price, I would disagree. Overall - a good cathedral, but I've been so spoiled by Westminster, St.Paul's and Notre Dame that Sacre Coeur seems a notch well below those three.
Notre Dame Cathedral (5 of 5)
Ok. Bottom line is that this is the best cathedral that I've been to in my entire life. I'd be surprised to find a better one in the world. Again - if anyone has found one and disagrees, please let me know! The Cathedral of Notre Dame, home to Quasimodo, literally translates to "Our Lady" or what I like to call the "There's Something About Mary" Cathedral where Mary reigns supreme in this 700 year old building. Just to show how important this cathedral is, Notre Dame is considered the center of the city and all Arrondissements (city areas) are based on a starting point of Notre Dame. So is it over-hyped? I can safely say no. Notre Dame has it all. From a quiet playground and park in the back, a huge square in the front, beautiful views from the Siene, impeccable upkeep inside and out, amazing gothic arches, detailed stained glass, the list goes on. This is a slam dunk must see if you are in Paris.
2011-06-05
Review on the Run: St. Fagans Open Air Museum and Castle (5 out of 5)
St. Fagans is the National History Museum of Wales. It includes a large open-air musuem as well a castle. The open-air museum frequently has live actors and activities such as blacksmithing, throwing pots, or whatever else you can find in a Welsh village. There is livestock, herb gardens, even a mill, and a bakery that bakes bread made from flour in the mill. You can easily spend a whole day here. This site is not only very well-done, fun, and educational, it is also free!
There is something here for everyone. The grown-ups liked the Castle gardens, complete with ponds, rocks, and acres of flowers, green grass and trees. Baby Isaac liked the farm animals, and got to pet some friendly sheep. Chloe and Michael chased around in the cock-fighting pit. The scones with clotted cream and jam were delicious. The Welsh houses were fun to explore, like seeing how people and animals used to live in one house together and part of their heating technology is body heat from the animals. Houses are very dark and low, so watch out if you have transitional glasses. The castle is more of a manor house than a castle, and there isn't much inside other than a good pit stop for a bathroom break while exploring the charming grounds outside.
All in all, a very impressive place.
There is something here for everyone. The grown-ups liked the Castle gardens, complete with ponds, rocks, and acres of flowers, green grass and trees. Baby Isaac liked the farm animals, and got to pet some friendly sheep. Chloe and Michael chased around in the cock-fighting pit. The scones with clotted cream and jam were delicious. The Welsh houses were fun to explore, like seeing how people and animals used to live in one house together and part of their heating technology is body heat from the animals. Houses are very dark and low, so watch out if you have transitional glasses. The castle is more of a manor house than a castle, and there isn't much inside other than a good pit stop for a bathroom break while exploring the charming grounds outside.
All in all, a very impressive place.
Review on the Run: Castell Coch (3.5 out of 5)
Castell Coch is a 19th century castle built upon an existing 13th century castle ruins.
We started the journey from our Cardiff home base, and drive about 15 minutes out to the village of Tongwinglais. We bought some honey from a small local farm, and walked about 30 minutes through a river side forested trail and village streets to the castle.
The castle is somewhat a Victorian fabrication of a small fantasy castle, but is still remarkable to see how rich people build their homes back then. The castle is fully furnished, the walls and ceilings elaborately painted. Compared to the medieval fortresses, this definitely wins in luxury points. The views are beautiful, the rooms are bright (thanks to invention of glass windows and steel hinges), and even comes with chamber pot toilets.
This castle was very fun to explore, and the views and surroundings are beautiful.
We started the journey from our Cardiff home base, and drive about 15 minutes out to the village of Tongwinglais. We bought some honey from a small local farm, and walked about 30 minutes through a river side forested trail and village streets to the castle.
The castle is somewhat a Victorian fabrication of a small fantasy castle, but is still remarkable to see how rich people build their homes back then. The castle is fully furnished, the walls and ceilings elaborately painted. Compared to the medieval fortresses, this definitely wins in luxury points. The views are beautiful, the rooms are bright (thanks to invention of glass windows and steel hinges), and even comes with chamber pot toilets.
This castle was very fun to explore, and the views and surroundings are beautiful.
Review on the Run: Caerphilly Castle (4 out of 5)
Caerphilly castle is the mighty medieval castle with a large moat that we used to draw as kids. It is the largest castle in Britain after Windsor castle, and is in a surprisingly well-preserved state considering that no major alterations have been made to it since the 13th century. It is important for representing a pure example of medieval military architecture, such as the use of concentric buildings, and the large-scale use of water.
We started our journey from our Cardiff home base, and took a 20-minute train-ride over to Caerphilly. The walk there was lined with ordinary shops such as Tesco Express, or bakeries, but as soon as we turned the corner, the castle was so large it seemed to be in your face. The entire castle grounds, including the paths and benchs across the moat, makes for a great stroll and picnic.
The Great Hall inside is still being used for weddings. You can browse through most the castle inside, though most of the rooms are empty, dim, and, cold. It wouldn't be my first choice to live in, though if I was being shot at by giant siege engines, I would feel pretty safe. You can see the incredibly thick walls in the leaning tower. There is a lot of room for kids to run around and explore, and grassy patches to sit on and relax.
This is a very impressive sight. Definitely a must-see for all ages.
We started our journey from our Cardiff home base, and took a 20-minute train-ride over to Caerphilly. The walk there was lined with ordinary shops such as Tesco Express, or bakeries, but as soon as we turned the corner, the castle was so large it seemed to be in your face. The entire castle grounds, including the paths and benchs across the moat, makes for a great stroll and picnic.
The Great Hall inside is still being used for weddings. You can browse through most the castle inside, though most of the rooms are empty, dim, and, cold. It wouldn't be my first choice to live in, though if I was being shot at by giant siege engines, I would feel pretty safe. You can see the incredibly thick walls in the leaning tower. There is a lot of room for kids to run around and explore, and grassy patches to sit on and relax.
This is a very impressive sight. Definitely a must-see for all ages.
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