Notice how the pictures posted have been dark and sucked out of all the colour? Well welcome to a new feature of Picassa!
I'm a heavy user of Picassa, but only the web album hosting capabilities. For this trip I decided to use it for importing and posting pics as well. I usually use Adode Lightroom on a different computer and post to Picassa directly. Well I don't have a license for our netbook and it didn't make sense to buy an extra $300 license for my $400 netbook.
Well, to my surprise in London, I found out that Picassa renders and interprets the RAW files funny. It desaturates the color wheel to a point and underexposes them by at least -2.0. They look fine in a different viewer, but when they get synched to Picassa they are lifeless.
So stay tuned for some real photos once I get home and pump them through LR!
2011-07-18
Nice: A perfect ending to the perfect vacation
And so here I am. In 12 hours we board a flight back to Calgary via Frankfurt. After 64 days on the road, I've been dreading this moment of doing my last city review on Nice. Ah yes... Nice: where everyone is fit - even the pigeons. The good news is that I couldn't imagine a more perfect way to end our travels. Here are some rambling thoughts:
Orientation
Our rental was right on Rue des Ponchette with a view of Promenade D'Anglais and the Mediterranean Sea. A great location right at the edge of the Old Town on the steps of Castle Hill. Everything is within walking distance or a short tram/bus ride away. If you visit this city, I'd recommend NOT renting a car as parking is sparse (and expensive), the traffic is bad, and there is no possible way of getting through your rental period dent free since the parallel parking here is insane. It seems to be customary to use your bumper and fender to push your way in and out of spots. All public transit is only 1 Euro each way - one of the cheapest systems in all of Europe.
Food
Everyday we would walk 2 minutes to the market on Cours Selaya and grab our food for the day that echoes the Provoncale life that we often envisioned. It's funny that from the buildings, to the cuisine, to the weather, Nice felt more like what we expected from Provence than Avignon - even though Nice is technically in the Cote d'Azur region. There were some highs, lows, and surprises. We expected the seafood would be fantastic (which it wasn't), the tomatoes to be outstanding (which they weren't), and some great fruit (but all we ended up eating most were peaches and nectarines). That aside, the courgettes (zuchinni's) and flowers were the phenomenal and the Italian food here is magnificent (no Chef Boyardee here).
Weather
Siew put it best when she said that there seems to be 2 temperatures that exist here: Hot and Very Hot. Although everyday varied between 27-32 (except that one day it hit 40), as they say it's not the heat that gets you, it's the humidity. The type of humidity that you walk out and your shirt just sticks to you. You feel like you are in a sauna and it can get difficult to even breath. If you melt like my family does, I'd recommend you splitting your day into 2 halves: Before Noon and after 6. In the between time, take a rest in your air-conditioned rental... another must especially with kids.
Overall
Nice was the least researched place for us so we didn't have too many expectation. We just wanted a place to relax. The vibe, type of people, and atmosphere of whole city reminds me a lot of Miami (South Beach), Florida. A city that is brimming culture, entertainment, history, and heavy influences from countries a stones throw away. With exception to a day trip to Monaco, we bummed around a lot, people watched, partied hard on Bastille Day, and enjoyed our time together - which was the perfect end to a perfect vacation.
Orientation
Our rental was right on Rue des Ponchette with a view of Promenade D'Anglais and the Mediterranean Sea. A great location right at the edge of the Old Town on the steps of Castle Hill. Everything is within walking distance or a short tram/bus ride away. If you visit this city, I'd recommend NOT renting a car as parking is sparse (and expensive), the traffic is bad, and there is no possible way of getting through your rental period dent free since the parallel parking here is insane. It seems to be customary to use your bumper and fender to push your way in and out of spots. All public transit is only 1 Euro each way - one of the cheapest systems in all of Europe.
Food
Everyday we would walk 2 minutes to the market on Cours Selaya and grab our food for the day that echoes the Provoncale life that we often envisioned. It's funny that from the buildings, to the cuisine, to the weather, Nice felt more like what we expected from Provence than Avignon - even though Nice is technically in the Cote d'Azur region. There were some highs, lows, and surprises. We expected the seafood would be fantastic (which it wasn't), the tomatoes to be outstanding (which they weren't), and some great fruit (but all we ended up eating most were peaches and nectarines). That aside, the courgettes (zuchinni's) and flowers were the phenomenal and the Italian food here is magnificent (no Chef Boyardee here).
Weather
Siew put it best when she said that there seems to be 2 temperatures that exist here: Hot and Very Hot. Although everyday varied between 27-32 (except that one day it hit 40), as they say it's not the heat that gets you, it's the humidity. The type of humidity that you walk out and your shirt just sticks to you. You feel like you are in a sauna and it can get difficult to even breath. If you melt like my family does, I'd recommend you splitting your day into 2 halves: Before Noon and after 6. In the between time, take a rest in your air-conditioned rental... another must especially with kids.
Overall
Nice was the least researched place for us so we didn't have too many expectation. We just wanted a place to relax. The vibe, type of people, and atmosphere of whole city reminds me a lot of Miami (South Beach), Florida. A city that is brimming culture, entertainment, history, and heavy influences from countries a stones throw away. With exception to a day trip to Monaco, we bummed around a lot, people watched, partied hard on Bastille Day, and enjoyed our time together - which was the perfect end to a perfect vacation.
Packing Light Part Deux
So my last article about this subject dealt with us trying to squeeze everything in a couple of small pieces of luggage. It compared what Rick Steve's recommends and pitting against our own ambitions. Now that we are leaving tomorrow back home I wanted to revisit the list to see what we could've/should've packed. Bottom line is that even though some people thought we were crazy in packing so little was that we actually over-packed if you can believe it. So much so that we ended up sending a box of things back to Canada during our stay in Cardiff to make room for gifts and souvenirs along the way. It was not too much hassle and inexpensive (30 GBP).
The big reason for not using everything is that we ended up doing laundry more frequently and the weather held up for almost our entire trip. Here is the list again, this time with columns indicating what we could've gotten away with in the "After" columns.
But this discussion is not limited to clothes as this is the easy part. A lot of room is taken up bt all the knick-knacks and miscellaneous things that you end up bringing. The biggest offenders for us were books (activity, music, homework) as they heavy and bulky while taking up valuable space. We found these the least used items and (for Chloe) the least interesting items. She much preferred stories about when we were small and what we used to do when we were kids and no homework :)
The big reason for not using everything is that we ended up doing laundry more frequently and the weather held up for almost our entire trip. Here is the list again, this time with columns indicating what we could've gotten away with in the "After" columns.
| Item | Rick | Victor (Before) | Victor (After) | Siew (Before) | Siew (After) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shirts | 5 | 7 | 6 | 8 | 6 |
| Sweaters | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 | 1 |
| Pants | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 2 |
| Shorts | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| Swimsuit | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Underwear | 5 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 5 |
| Socks | 5 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 5 |
| PJs | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| Shoes | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Jacket | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Tie/Scarf | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
But this discussion is not limited to clothes as this is the easy part. A lot of room is taken up bt all the knick-knacks and miscellaneous things that you end up bringing. The biggest offenders for us were books (activity, music, homework) as they heavy and bulky while taking up valuable space. We found these the least used items and (for Chloe) the least interesting items. She much preferred stories about when we were small and what we used to do when we were kids and no homework :)
2011-07-16
Chloe's convenient math skills
When given a limited number of tokens for an amusement park, kids can develop a strangely convenient math ability.
Chloe was given 8 tokens to play at an amusement park in Nice. We then told her what each of the ride costs. She picks the bouncer area first for 3 tokens, then we had to go home.
Magic math happened the next day. She told us, "I used 3 tokens for the bouncers yesterday so I have 5 tokens left. I want to go on the bouncers again! So that will leave me 2 tokens. What should I do then? I know! I'll go on the trampoline twice because it takes 1 token each time."
Subtraction, multiplication, orders of operation, and problem solving all in one! Wow!
"Chloe, what's 8 minus 3?"
"I don't know."
How convenient.
2011-07-15
Lessons Learned from Europe
Being in Europe for the last 9 weeks have got us thinking about several different topics.
1. We don't need so much space
With exception to our house in Les Angles (Avignon), our apartments have ranged between 550 sqft (in Paris) to the "monsterous" 1000 sqft condo in South Kensington. Being in such tight living quarters makes us view space a littler different back home in Calgary where it seems anything less than 1500 sqft is considered cramped. Do we need it all? We managed just fine in all spaces. Siew brought up a good point though that small spaces may be fine when the kids are small - but when they are tweeners maybe not so much.
2. We should pay more for gas
People complain about gas prices in Calgary screaming at $1.20/L (at least when I left) and how it is outrageous. Well filling up in Les Angles, I paid 1.34 Euros/L which equals $1.87/L. These are standard everyday prices that Europeans have paid for a long time. Yet instead of complaining about it they have chosen to act by improving their public transportation infrastructure and driving fuel efficient cars. I think in order for us as Canadians to really shift our thinking, it would take a significant jump in gas prices before people are forced to find alternative ways of getting around.
3. We need to re-evaluate our consumption & waste
I guess this is just an extension of the previous 2 points, but I think we just need to really be conscious of how much we consume and throw. Whether it is space, fuel, food, garbage - everything. I think that we do a fairly good job of recycling everything possible, but perhaps I will set up that compost that I've been thinking about as well as hang up a clothes line.
4. Canada's recycling program is light years ahead of Europe
This was a big a shock to us as anything of the lack of recycling that goes on here. For all the fuel efficiency and alternative transport they promote here, their recycling program seems non-existent in many ways and resembles the programs we had in the 1980's when recycling was first being done on a city wide basis in Canada. For example, you can only recycle glass, and paper. They do not accept plastic containers of any sort, tetra paks, cardboard etc. And for some cities, you have to walk several blocks to put your glass in a special bin. Since people are lazy, they usually end up trashing it.
5. Eat Local
In Europe and much of Asia, many of the allergies that we have in North America are unheard of or rare. Things such as hay fever or nut allergies don't get much attention. There is a theory that my other boss (Greg) has about this that I find interesting. It's called the "Wonder Bread" theory. Basically if you look at the ingredient list of a loaf of Wonder Bread, many of the ingredients are unrecognizable. Basically the point is food manufacturers continue to modify ingredients to cut costs, increase shelf life etc. to a state where the modified ingredient has no resemblance of what you needed in the first place. The cumulative effect of daily consumption over a span of 20 years leads to sensitivities to naturally occurring substances and ingredients. I have a similar theory that is along the same lines where we pump our meat etc with so many hormones that it screws our body somehow. Have you seen a chicken breast in America versus Europe? The American one is literally 3 times the size. In any event, the point is goes back to eating foods that haven't been modified and that come from a place that is local. We try to do this but I think that we may make a bigger effort when we head home... in 3 days :(
1. We don't need so much space
With exception to our house in Les Angles (Avignon), our apartments have ranged between 550 sqft (in Paris) to the "monsterous" 1000 sqft condo in South Kensington. Being in such tight living quarters makes us view space a littler different back home in Calgary where it seems anything less than 1500 sqft is considered cramped. Do we need it all? We managed just fine in all spaces. Siew brought up a good point though that small spaces may be fine when the kids are small - but when they are tweeners maybe not so much.
2. We should pay more for gas
People complain about gas prices in Calgary screaming at $1.20/L (at least when I left) and how it is outrageous. Well filling up in Les Angles, I paid 1.34 Euros/L which equals $1.87/L. These are standard everyday prices that Europeans have paid for a long time. Yet instead of complaining about it they have chosen to act by improving their public transportation infrastructure and driving fuel efficient cars. I think in order for us as Canadians to really shift our thinking, it would take a significant jump in gas prices before people are forced to find alternative ways of getting around.
3. We need to re-evaluate our consumption & waste
I guess this is just an extension of the previous 2 points, but I think we just need to really be conscious of how much we consume and throw. Whether it is space, fuel, food, garbage - everything. I think that we do a fairly good job of recycling everything possible, but perhaps I will set up that compost that I've been thinking about as well as hang up a clothes line.
4. Canada's recycling program is light years ahead of Europe
This was a big a shock to us as anything of the lack of recycling that goes on here. For all the fuel efficiency and alternative transport they promote here, their recycling program seems non-existent in many ways and resembles the programs we had in the 1980's when recycling was first being done on a city wide basis in Canada. For example, you can only recycle glass, and paper. They do not accept plastic containers of any sort, tetra paks, cardboard etc. And for some cities, you have to walk several blocks to put your glass in a special bin. Since people are lazy, they usually end up trashing it.
5. Eat Local
In Europe and much of Asia, many of the allergies that we have in North America are unheard of or rare. Things such as hay fever or nut allergies don't get much attention. There is a theory that my other boss (Greg) has about this that I find interesting. It's called the "Wonder Bread" theory. Basically if you look at the ingredient list of a loaf of Wonder Bread, many of the ingredients are unrecognizable. Basically the point is food manufacturers continue to modify ingredients to cut costs, increase shelf life etc. to a state where the modified ingredient has no resemblance of what you needed in the first place. The cumulative effect of daily consumption over a span of 20 years leads to sensitivities to naturally occurring substances and ingredients. I have a similar theory that is along the same lines where we pump our meat etc with so many hormones that it screws our body somehow. Have you seen a chicken breast in America versus Europe? The American one is literally 3 times the size. In any event, the point is goes back to eating foods that haven't been modified and that come from a place that is local. We try to do this but I think that we may make a bigger effort when we head home... in 3 days :(
2011-07-14
Review on the Run: Monaco (4 of 5)
Monaco (4 of 5)
Yesterday our travels took us to Monaco, a Riviera must that is only a short 45 minute bus ride from Nice. The best part about this was that it only cost 1 Euro, by far the cheapest part of the day. The forecast called for rain so we took the opportunity to go. What we've found consistently on this trip is by going to the tourist sites on "bad weather" days has been the best time to avoid the mob of tourists. The weather is never as bad as the forecast and it offers a break from the beating sun. Besides, yesterday it didn't rain until 6pm (we were home by then) and it was still +32 in the cloud cover.
Racing fans will have a love affair with Monaco as the F1 Grand Prix de Monaco has run here since 1929. Believe me that the principality looks way better in real life than on TV. There is a Vegas feel to the whole place due in part that everything is so clean and pristine that it looks kinda fake. We got off the Place d"Armes stop and hiked up the hill to see the Prince's Palace, had lunch, and played at the playground on top. To entice Chloe away from the playground, we hunted for ice cream while doing some shopping before hiking back down, taking the bus over to Monte Carlo, and finding the bus back to Nice. Now I've been to the Monte Carlo in Vegas, and really can't see any resemblance to the casino here other than the name. The Monte Carlo Casino here is truly what I expected from a top notch casino. It wasn't particularly huge, although the grounds and gardens were, and you could smell the money being made from outside where you will get your fill of Lotus' and Ferrari's. Want to gamble? Think again as a jacket and tie are required for men - which would be unbearable for me in this heat.
I'd have to say though that we didn't have enough time in Monaco. By the late afternoon everyone was dying from the heat and was ready for an afternoon nap. It was a great chance to experience, even for a day, a lifestyle that we will never lead and wouldn't want to in the first place. I'm sure there is a lot of people suffering from "keeping up with the Jone's" syndrome. I'll leave off with some interesting facts about the place.
- Population is 30,000
- Only 10,000 are true Monegasques, the other 20,000 live here to take advantage of the no income tax
- The country used to be 3 times bigger, but in 1860 it lost 2/3rds when the region of Menton voted to join France. To compensate, France suggested Monaco build a casino and promised to connect it to the world with a road and a train line. This started the tourist boom.
- It's current Prince (Albert) has competed in several Olympics for bobsledding.
- There are more people in Monaco's philharmonic (100) than its army (80).
Yesterday our travels took us to Monaco, a Riviera must that is only a short 45 minute bus ride from Nice. The best part about this was that it only cost 1 Euro, by far the cheapest part of the day. The forecast called for rain so we took the opportunity to go. What we've found consistently on this trip is by going to the tourist sites on "bad weather" days has been the best time to avoid the mob of tourists. The weather is never as bad as the forecast and it offers a break from the beating sun. Besides, yesterday it didn't rain until 6pm (we were home by then) and it was still +32 in the cloud cover.
Racing fans will have a love affair with Monaco as the F1 Grand Prix de Monaco has run here since 1929. Believe me that the principality looks way better in real life than on TV. There is a Vegas feel to the whole place due in part that everything is so clean and pristine that it looks kinda fake. We got off the Place d"Armes stop and hiked up the hill to see the Prince's Palace, had lunch, and played at the playground on top. To entice Chloe away from the playground, we hunted for ice cream while doing some shopping before hiking back down, taking the bus over to Monte Carlo, and finding the bus back to Nice. Now I've been to the Monte Carlo in Vegas, and really can't see any resemblance to the casino here other than the name. The Monte Carlo Casino here is truly what I expected from a top notch casino. It wasn't particularly huge, although the grounds and gardens were, and you could smell the money being made from outside where you will get your fill of Lotus' and Ferrari's. Want to gamble? Think again as a jacket and tie are required for men - which would be unbearable for me in this heat.
I'd have to say though that we didn't have enough time in Monaco. By the late afternoon everyone was dying from the heat and was ready for an afternoon nap. It was a great chance to experience, even for a day, a lifestyle that we will never lead and wouldn't want to in the first place. I'm sure there is a lot of people suffering from "keeping up with the Jone's" syndrome. I'll leave off with some interesting facts about the place.
- Population is 30,000
- Only 10,000 are true Monegasques, the other 20,000 live here to take advantage of the no income tax
- The country used to be 3 times bigger, but in 1860 it lost 2/3rds when the region of Menton voted to join France. To compensate, France suggested Monaco build a casino and promised to connect it to the world with a road and a train line. This started the tourist boom.
- It's current Prince (Albert) has competed in several Olympics for bobsledding.
- There are more people in Monaco's philharmonic (100) than its army (80).
2011-07-12
Isaac: The difference 9 weeks can make
It is amazing to see the progress that Isaac has made in 9 short weeks.
1. Officially rolled over from back to front
Yes I know that he should've done this at 4 months and not 10, but in his defence, Isaac was fat and lazy. He could've back then, but I think he chose not to. Now that he sees Chloe running around, we wants to join in the fun.
2. He can climb stairs... but not down
He's got lots of practice since the first 6 weeks we stayed in places with stairs - including a deathtrap in Paris which had no railings. Coming down he still chooses to go head first though.
3. Can stand on his own
Yes - Isaac has officially stood on his own unassisted. This lasted a full 20 seconds... until he realized what he was doing, sat down, and started crying. He's never stood unassisted since.
4. Has increased his vocabulary by 600%
This stat sounds a lot more impressive since he really only knew how to say Mom in Mandarin before travelling. He now can say: Dad, Big Sister, Eat, and Milk in Mandarin in addition to being able to sign for "more" which is very helpful when eating.
5. He has developed the "Khoo Quaffe" :(
As much as we hoped for Isaac to have the same hair as Chloe, he unfortunately does not. Chloe has Mommy's texture (fine) and Daddy's volume (a lot). Isaac unfortunately has the "Khoo Quaffe" which speaks for every male in the Khoo family line. He has a lot of hair but it will be the tough wiry texture that will make him destined (if left untreated) for formidable afros that will give Jules Winnfield a run for his money. If you've met my brother, you'll know what I mean,.
1. Officially rolled over from back to front
Yes I know that he should've done this at 4 months and not 10, but in his defence, Isaac was fat and lazy. He could've back then, but I think he chose not to. Now that he sees Chloe running around, we wants to join in the fun.
2. He can climb stairs... but not down
He's got lots of practice since the first 6 weeks we stayed in places with stairs - including a deathtrap in Paris which had no railings. Coming down he still chooses to go head first though.
3. Can stand on his own
Yes - Isaac has officially stood on his own unassisted. This lasted a full 20 seconds... until he realized what he was doing, sat down, and started crying. He's never stood unassisted since.
4. Has increased his vocabulary by 600%
This stat sounds a lot more impressive since he really only knew how to say Mom in Mandarin before travelling. He now can say: Dad, Big Sister, Eat, and Milk in Mandarin in addition to being able to sign for "more" which is very helpful when eating.
5. He has developed the "Khoo Quaffe" :(
As much as we hoped for Isaac to have the same hair as Chloe, he unfortunately does not. Chloe has Mommy's texture (fine) and Daddy's volume (a lot). Isaac unfortunately has the "Khoo Quaffe" which speaks for every male in the Khoo family line. He has a lot of hair but it will be the tough wiry texture that will make him destined (if left untreated) for formidable afros that will give Jules Winnfield a run for his money. If you've met my brother, you'll know what I mean,.
2011-07-11
Signs that your vacation is too long
As if there is such a thing... but yes there have been a moment or too where I've been homesick.
1. You can't stand the sight of a croissant or pain au chocolat
As perfect and buttery as they are, there is indeed such a thing as having too much of something that is heavenly. But I've had my fill to last several lifetimes. The baguettes however I will not get sick of.
2. Your body looks like the "before" picture of a loss weight program informercial
Not to say I ever looked the "after", but I've seen the "before" and believe me - I'm getting there. My only saving grace is that it's so freaking hot down here that I manage to sweat off all the calories I consume in croissants and pain au chocolats. To make things worse, all the locals in Nice look like they've been on P90X (and completed the program) which makes me just plain depressed - as I stuff my face full of crossaints and pain au chocolats.
3. Your hair goes from American Crew to Justin Beiber to Sideshow Bob
If I was 14 maybe I wouldn't mind. Sure I could get a haircut here, but I'm too lazy. Thank goodness for Pommade to control the "Khoo-quaff".
4. The kid's meltdowns are increasing in frequency and volume
I can probably say that we've finally reached Chloe's limit just yesterday and Grandma's limit 3 weeks ago. I'll spare the details, but Chloe's night time routine has tested our patience to the max over the last 3 nights. She put it best a few days ago while walking in Avignon though when she said "Daddy - I want to go back to Canada." I asked her why and she responded "Because it's more comfortable". Amen.
1. You can't stand the sight of a croissant or pain au chocolat
As perfect and buttery as they are, there is indeed such a thing as having too much of something that is heavenly. But I've had my fill to last several lifetimes. The baguettes however I will not get sick of.
2. Your body looks like the "before" picture of a loss weight program informercial
Not to say I ever looked the "after", but I've seen the "before" and believe me - I'm getting there. My only saving grace is that it's so freaking hot down here that I manage to sweat off all the calories I consume in croissants and pain au chocolats. To make things worse, all the locals in Nice look like they've been on P90X (and completed the program) which makes me just plain depressed - as I stuff my face full of crossaints and pain au chocolats.
3. Your hair goes from American Crew to Justin Beiber to Sideshow Bob
If I was 14 maybe I wouldn't mind. Sure I could get a haircut here, but I'm too lazy. Thank goodness for Pommade to control the "Khoo-quaff".
4. The kid's meltdowns are increasing in frequency and volume
I can probably say that we've finally reached Chloe's limit just yesterday and Grandma's limit 3 weeks ago. I'll spare the details, but Chloe's night time routine has tested our patience to the max over the last 3 nights. She put it best a few days ago while walking in Avignon though when she said "Daddy - I want to go back to Canada." I asked her why and she responded "Because it's more comfortable". Amen.
2011-07-10
Signs that your vacation is too short
As we head into the home stretch, some things that make me think that we should stay a little longer.
1. Your repeated attempts to extend your leave from work has been denied by your boss
Ok Susan - if you are reading this I have to be fair. Although technically I haven't formally asked you about extending my leave, you and I both know what the answer would have been. I also suspect it would've been followed by a string of four letter words in succession ;)
2. Your countdown app on your IPhone changes from...
Days until you leave work
Days until you are on a plan
Days you have been on vacation
Days left on your vacation
Days until you get back to work
3. You are already planning your next vacation
For us, vacation is something we really look forward to. So if we aren't thinking about where we're going to go next, it makes day to day life very dull. But we have already agreed that we must come back to Paris.
4. You are looking at real estate and job openings in the areas and cities you visit
Perhaps that this is a sign that you just really love the place - but for me I think that its a sign that I just haven't got my fill. Once you cross that mental barrier of "you know, I could live here" then there is something more than just a love affair with the place.
5. You start thinking about the routing problems that await you at work
Can QoS markings and transport protocol selection really solve the world's problems when in the end everything is really best effort? *sigh* I cannot escape the geekdom that awaits.
1. Your repeated attempts to extend your leave from work has been denied by your boss
Ok Susan - if you are reading this I have to be fair. Although technically I haven't formally asked you about extending my leave, you and I both know what the answer would have been. I also suspect it would've been followed by a string of four letter words in succession ;)
2. Your countdown app on your IPhone changes from...
Days until you leave work
Days until you are on a plan
Days you have been on vacation
Days left on your vacation
Days until you get back to work
3. You are already planning your next vacation
For us, vacation is something we really look forward to. So if we aren't thinking about where we're going to go next, it makes day to day life very dull. But we have already agreed that we must come back to Paris.
4. You are looking at real estate and job openings in the areas and cities you visit
Perhaps that this is a sign that you just really love the place - but for me I think that its a sign that I just haven't got my fill. Once you cross that mental barrier of "you know, I could live here" then there is something more than just a love affair with the place.
5. You start thinking about the routing problems that await you at work
Can QoS markings and transport protocol selection really solve the world's problems when in the end everything is really best effort? *sigh* I cannot escape the geekdom that awaits.
2011-07-08
Provence: Where time stands still
As we've been doing after every time we switch locations, we've posted a review. But to post a review on Avignon is not really fair since we didn't even stay in Avignon. We actually stayed in Les Angles which is located just across the Rhone to the West of Avignon. So instead here are some thoughts on the whole region of Provence.
Food
I wasn't expecting the food to be so drastically different than Paris - but it was in a good way. Provancale food shouts out simplicity where the concentration is on the natural flavour of the ingredients to be on full display. The prominence of open air markets is a must when visiting here. They are in general 4 times bigger than anything we've seen in Paris, while the one in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is an attraction in itself as it seems the entire village becomes the market. Another surprise is to see the heavy dose of Spanish offerings this far North of Spain. Paella is everywhere and the Italian eateries are also plentiful.
Navigation
If you visit Provence, renting a car is a must since the region is really made for exploring this way. Getting lost in the winding roads as you past vineyards, sunflower patches, and lavender fields will be some of our best memories. When visiting the region, most people use either Avignon or Arles (30 km to the South) as a hub for your adventures. As cool as Arles is with its heavy Roman influences, we preferred Avignon which is considered the cultural capital of France. Attending the Festival d'Avignon is proof of this. Either way though, from both locations you are well situated to go to the Luberon region to the East, Orange & Vaison de la Romaine to the North, Pont Du Gard and Nimes to the West, and Les Baux to the South. A GPS is another must as I don't see how you would get around without one unless you learned all the roads.
Climate
I won't sugar coat this - it was an absolute scorcher here. I believe that the lowest it ever got was 28 with a high of 37 and an average of 33.
Time
I can't count how many times we've asked one another what the time was and the person who answers is off by 2 hours. Things seems so relaxed year that we lost all sense of time altogether, a stark contrast the mega cities of Paris and London.
Overall
I can't shake this feeling that this area reminded me a lot of California. The climate, the great food and wine, and the diverse topography immediately reminded me of our time in SoCal. I think its a good analogy since many of Europeans come here for a break too. All California is missing are the 1000 year old castles and bridges ;)
Next and Final Stop (I can't believe it's almost over) - Nice.
Food
I wasn't expecting the food to be so drastically different than Paris - but it was in a good way. Provancale food shouts out simplicity where the concentration is on the natural flavour of the ingredients to be on full display. The prominence of open air markets is a must when visiting here. They are in general 4 times bigger than anything we've seen in Paris, while the one in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is an attraction in itself as it seems the entire village becomes the market. Another surprise is to see the heavy dose of Spanish offerings this far North of Spain. Paella is everywhere and the Italian eateries are also plentiful.
Navigation
If you visit Provence, renting a car is a must since the region is really made for exploring this way. Getting lost in the winding roads as you past vineyards, sunflower patches, and lavender fields will be some of our best memories. When visiting the region, most people use either Avignon or Arles (30 km to the South) as a hub for your adventures. As cool as Arles is with its heavy Roman influences, we preferred Avignon which is considered the cultural capital of France. Attending the Festival d'Avignon is proof of this. Either way though, from both locations you are well situated to go to the Luberon region to the East, Orange & Vaison de la Romaine to the North, Pont Du Gard and Nimes to the West, and Les Baux to the South. A GPS is another must as I don't see how you would get around without one unless you learned all the roads.
Climate
I won't sugar coat this - it was an absolute scorcher here. I believe that the lowest it ever got was 28 with a high of 37 and an average of 33.
Time
I can't count how many times we've asked one another what the time was and the person who answers is off by 2 hours. Things seems so relaxed year that we lost all sense of time altogether, a stark contrast the mega cities of Paris and London.
Overall
I can't shake this feeling that this area reminded me a lot of California. The climate, the great food and wine, and the diverse topography immediately reminded me of our time in SoCal. I think its a good analogy since many of Europeans come here for a break too. All California is missing are the 1000 year old castles and bridges ;)
Next and Final Stop (I can't believe it's almost over) - Nice.
2011-07-06
Open Air Markets in Provence
Open air markets are huge in Provence. By huge, I mean size, popularity, greatness, and anything associated with the word HUGE. Markets in Paris were a bit of a disappointment, but the markets in Provence are incredible.
The first market we went to was our local small town one in Villeneuve Les Avignon. Already, we were impressed by the size and variety of things you can find here. We picked up a pair of sandals for Isaac here. We could have also bought some mops, or garlic grinder, or discount swimwear along the way. If the kids weren't melting in the heat, I would liked to pick up some linen dresses. The produce is so fresh you can see sap dripping from the stems. There are butchers, fish stalls, rotisseries selling farm fresh chicken or rabbit, and lots and lots of melons and peaches.
The second market we went to was the granddaddy market of them all in Isle-Sur-La-Sorge town. This town is called the Venice of Provence, because of all the water ways all over town. It seems like the entire small town is converted into a large market, with stalls crammed along all the streets. There were lots of antiques there, but digging though flea market stuff in 33C heat and crowds of people spells trouble with kids. We were there for probably 2 hours, but didn't make it through the whole market. There were provencal fabrics, stinky cheeses, tapenades, food vendors, purses, toys, you name it. Unfortunately, Chloe developed a heat rash and was scratching and screaming like a dog with lice. So we had to leave. We had to leave before the heat and crowds swallowed us up, but what an incredible experience it was to visit these markets.
Signs that you are still a tourist
Just when we think that we are beginning to fit in - reality hits during these times.
1. You have your Nikon strapped on your neck 24/7
Although it is becoming more common for locals to carry their cameras around to take some shots of daily life, nothing will give you away more as a tourist than a camera around your neck. It's a good thing that people here don't automatically assume English. I've had Japanese, Vietnamese, Mandarin, and Korean spoken my way - mostly by other Japanese, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Korean tourists asking me a question. The French - usually default to French which is a nice opportunity for me to practice.
2. You don't dress the part
This is part of my own doing as I'm definitely not known to be stylish even in my own country, but next the camera around your neck, your clothes are a huge giveaway that you are from abroad. When people guess where I'm from, even before I speak English, they usually guess right in saying either US/Canada. Perhaps it's my ECCO hikers, my North Face shorts, Eddie Bauer travel shirt, and Oakleys that gives my Canadian roots away. If I was from Asia, I'd probably have one of two outfits: dress shoes, dress pants, collared shirt, cardigan, and LV man-bag OR white sneaks, jeans, pink polo (turquoise acceptable), and... LV man-bag.
3. You buy time in the car as your GPS is "Recalculating"
Fortunately this hasn't happened too often as I'd like to think I'm fairly decent with directions and don't panic if I miss my turn. However, when I do and there is a lot of traffic at high speed, those few seconds that it takes the GPS to recalculate the best route after you've screwed up sure feels like an eternity.
4. You crave a food from back home that you can't get locally
Maybe a by-product of me being away for so long - but I already know what my first meal will be when I get back to Calgary: AAA Alberta Rib-Eye with long grain rice and choy sum.
1. You have your Nikon strapped on your neck 24/7
Although it is becoming more common for locals to carry their cameras around to take some shots of daily life, nothing will give you away more as a tourist than a camera around your neck. It's a good thing that people here don't automatically assume English. I've had Japanese, Vietnamese, Mandarin, and Korean spoken my way - mostly by other Japanese, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Korean tourists asking me a question. The French - usually default to French which is a nice opportunity for me to practice.
2. You don't dress the part
This is part of my own doing as I'm definitely not known to be stylish even in my own country, but next the camera around your neck, your clothes are a huge giveaway that you are from abroad. When people guess where I'm from, even before I speak English, they usually guess right in saying either US/Canada. Perhaps it's my ECCO hikers, my North Face shorts, Eddie Bauer travel shirt, and Oakleys that gives my Canadian roots away. If I was from Asia, I'd probably have one of two outfits: dress shoes, dress pants, collared shirt, cardigan, and LV man-bag OR white sneaks, jeans, pink polo (turquoise acceptable), and... LV man-bag.
3. You buy time in the car as your GPS is "Recalculating"
Fortunately this hasn't happened too often as I'd like to think I'm fairly decent with directions and don't panic if I miss my turn. However, when I do and there is a lot of traffic at high speed, those few seconds that it takes the GPS to recalculate the best route after you've screwed up sure feels like an eternity.
4. You crave a food from back home that you can't get locally
Maybe a by-product of me being away for so long - but I already know what my first meal will be when I get back to Calgary: AAA Alberta Rib-Eye with long grain rice and choy sum.
2011-07-05
Review on the Run: Pont Du Gard Roman Aqueduct(5 out of 5), Haribo Candy Museum(1 out of 5)
Pont Du Gard
Pont du Gard is a perfectly preserved Roman aqueduct built in 19 B.C. Not only is the sight awe-inspiring and beautiful, the area surrounding it is a beautiful park filled with treed trails, with a shallow river for wading and swimming. The kids enjoyed throwing rocks into the shallow river and spotting tadpoles and fish in the pools of water. The walk up to the panoramic point to view the aqueduct is breathtaking. Maybe I'm biased because I am just so impressed by the engineering of the Romans. By dropping one inch for every 350 feet, it supplied nine million gallons of water per day to Nimes, one of ancient Europe's largest cities. The structure is made to hold without mortar (entirely held by gravity of the stone arches), and withstood floods and natural disasters for thousands of years. This is the second highest standing Roman structure (Roman colosseum is only 6 feet taller). We saw some people float down the river on kayaks. If you're brave, you can swim through the arches too.
Haribo Museum
The only reason this got 1 star rather than no star, is that the candy here is actually REALLY good. The museum itself was mildly interesting, if that. Maybe I'm not being fair, because the second floor was closed for renos when we were there, but there really wasn't much to see there. I thought we could taste more candies and see more being made. Out of all the machines they had, half of them were broken. The only one working was for packaging ready made candies, not for actually making them. The site was a disappointment, but the candy is really the freshest and yummiest candies I've ever had!
Signs that you are becoming a local
Some things that have happened along the way that have made us feel like that we are beginning to fit in.
1. A local asks you for directions
In Paris one our way home after a long day of sightseeing, a lady stops us and asks in in French if we know the direction to the nearest metro station. We say one word "Cite" [the name of the metro station] and point. We passed with flying colours.
2. Your daughter picks up an English accent and keeps it for the duration of the trip
I can't pin the precise moment, but believe she picked it up from here Cardiff cousin's. We did a double take when she asked "Dad. Do you still have my train ticket?" in a very Michael Caine sort of way and had to laugh. Chloe hasn't lost the accent since.
3. You start getting annoyed at tourists who are driving a rental yet you yourself are one
Nothing more annoying than being stuck behind a person that can't make up their mind on where to go. "Um, should I turn here? Let's slow down to see the road sign. Nope. Next one. Wait a second... nah. Speed limit is 90, so I'll drive 35 just to be safe." I wish people would just pull over to the side and get their bearings instead of not admitting defeat and causing havoc on the roads.
4. You don't freak out when there is no soya sauce
Ok. Asian thing. You are in a rental and bought a huge slab of veal that you want to season. Standard marinade of garlic, ginger, light soya, sugar, star anise, and sherry right? Except you are in Provence and they have no concept of more than one type of soya sauce, their ginger is way too young, star anise seems to be a foreign ingredient, and cooking with sherry is sacrilegious. That's ok. Iron Chef it with garlic, honey, fleur de sel, balsamic vinegar, and "herbs de provence"... yummy!
1. A local asks you for directions
In Paris one our way home after a long day of sightseeing, a lady stops us and asks in in French if we know the direction to the nearest metro station. We say one word "Cite" [the name of the metro station] and point. We passed with flying colours.
2. Your daughter picks up an English accent and keeps it for the duration of the trip
I can't pin the precise moment, but believe she picked it up from here Cardiff cousin's. We did a double take when she asked "Dad. Do you still have my train ticket?" in a very Michael Caine sort of way and had to laugh. Chloe hasn't lost the accent since.
3. You start getting annoyed at tourists who are driving a rental yet you yourself are one
Nothing more annoying than being stuck behind a person that can't make up their mind on where to go. "Um, should I turn here? Let's slow down to see the road sign. Nope. Next one. Wait a second... nah. Speed limit is 90, so I'll drive 35 just to be safe." I wish people would just pull over to the side and get their bearings instead of not admitting defeat and causing havoc on the roads.
4. You don't freak out when there is no soya sauce
Ok. Asian thing. You are in a rental and bought a huge slab of veal that you want to season. Standard marinade of garlic, ginger, light soya, sugar, star anise, and sherry right? Except you are in Provence and they have no concept of more than one type of soya sauce, their ginger is way too young, star anise seems to be a foreign ingredient, and cooking with sherry is sacrilegious. That's ok. Iron Chef it with garlic, honey, fleur de sel, balsamic vinegar, and "herbs de provence"... yummy!
2011-07-02
Updated Pictures Tab
FYI - managed to get a stable connection and uploaded the last week's worth of photos. Also reorganized the Pictures tab to be a little more descriptive upon some requests. It was bugging me anyways.
Hope to upload the next batch of photos that include Pont du Gard, Theatre Antique D'Orange, and Les Chateau de Baux in the next day or two.\
Stay tuned!
Hope to upload the next batch of photos that include Pont du Gard, Theatre Antique D'Orange, and Les Chateau de Baux in the next day or two.\
Stay tuned!
Driving in Provence - Like taking a hike with your car...
First off sorry to all about the pictures. Time seems to stand still here - much like the internet connection. There are hundreds to upload but the internet connection here has been so spotty and slow that uploading pictures seems almost impossible. Hopefully there will be a faster internet connection in Nice.
So in Avignon, we rented a car. I decided to rent something that I wouldn't be able to afford (or too cheap to buy) in my normal ho-hum life in Calgary. For an extra $50 CDN I upgraded from a Citroen C5 to a "Mercedes C-Class or similar". The last caveat of "or similar" is significant since when I went to pick up the car from Avis at the Avignon TGV station, I noticed there were no Mercedes in the parking lot. Can't complain though since I still managed to get a BMW X1. Overall a good vehicle but am disappointed in the power (143 hp). My old Mazda3 was more fun to drive IMO. I think that this is about as big a vehicle as I'd want here with all the roads being so narrow.
In the last week, we've went to Pond Du Gard (truly outstanding btw) and some disappointing ones for me personally (Theatre Antique d'Orange, Les Chateau des Baux). But along the way, I've been taking some really neat roads top get to our destination courtesy of our GPS. BTW - don't drive here without one. I swear it saved our life.
The drive has often been the best part for me. Going through vineyard country, winding roads, tree tunnels, rundown castles, sunflower patches, and lavender fields has been quite a sight. And since the roads are so narrow with no shoulders and barely wide enough for two cars, you are so close to the side it feels like, as Siew puts it, "taking a hike with a car" which hit the nail on the head.
So in Avignon, we rented a car. I decided to rent something that I wouldn't be able to afford (or too cheap to buy) in my normal ho-hum life in Calgary. For an extra $50 CDN I upgraded from a Citroen C5 to a "Mercedes C-Class or similar". The last caveat of "or similar" is significant since when I went to pick up the car from Avis at the Avignon TGV station, I noticed there were no Mercedes in the parking lot. Can't complain though since I still managed to get a BMW X1. Overall a good vehicle but am disappointed in the power (143 hp). My old Mazda3 was more fun to drive IMO. I think that this is about as big a vehicle as I'd want here with all the roads being so narrow.
In the last week, we've went to Pond Du Gard (truly outstanding btw) and some disappointing ones for me personally (Theatre Antique d'Orange, Les Chateau des Baux). But along the way, I've been taking some really neat roads top get to our destination courtesy of our GPS. BTW - don't drive here without one. I swear it saved our life.
The drive has often been the best part for me. Going through vineyard country, winding roads, tree tunnels, rundown castles, sunflower patches, and lavender fields has been quite a sight. And since the roads are so narrow with no shoulders and barely wide enough for two cars, you are so close to the side it feels like, as Siew puts it, "taking a hike with a car" which hit the nail on the head.
Weekly Wackies - Week 6
- The mistral wind in Provence is so strong, it feels like someone shoving you from behind. Chloe and popo even had to put on their jackets.
- The milk and eggs here are not refrigerated. The milk comes in bottles that sit on shelves.
- Frozen duck confit wasn't bad. Just really salty.
- The provencal market (our neighbourhood one in Villeneuve des Avignon) was huge! This is what we expect out of a French market. Fruits so fresh there is still sap on the stems. You can also pick up clothes, shoes, pottery, and mops!
- The nickname for our Avignon house is Donut. It is like a square donut with a courtyard in the middle. Chloe runs a dozen laps in the house every day.
- Isaac stood without assistance for 30 seconds today. Then he realized what he was doing and cried.
- Chloe now has a partial British accent thanks to her Welsh cousin. Water is "wat Er", and questions have a distinctive British twist at the end.
- My french still sucks. Now in provence they seem to understand me even less.
- There are no traffic lights anywhere. Traffic circles are placed at every intersection.
- E.Leclerc by our house is like a huge Walmart. It's so huge it is called "Hypermarche".
- Candy from Haribo museum is really really good. There is a difference!
2011-06-28
Grand Entrance into Avignon
From the time we booked accommodations in Avignon until now, I was a little worried. Khoo's do not historically do well in heat. They sag, melt, and occasionally faint.
Yes, the heat we foresaw, but our grand entrance into Avignon, no one foresaw.
The TGV (bullet train) ride from Paris to Avignon was a rocky one, in the literal sense. We could have been on fishing boat for all I knew. This was not the first time I was hit by motion sickness so I dealt with it swiftly and efficiently on the train. Chloe, on the other hand, had never had trouble with motion sickness so we really didn't understand why she was crying hysterically as we were approaching Avignon.
When the train stops, you get about 5 minutes to get off the train before it departs for the next stop. When our train stopped in Avignon, daddy had our 2 large bags and a stroller, I had Isaac strapped in front and a backpack behind, and we were both begging our screaming child to get off her seat. Luckily some other people helped us with our luggage while daddy picked up Chloe and rushed out the door.
Thinking she was dehydrated, we gave her some coke to drink. And there it all came out. In a projectile. All over herself, the stroller, the floor. Poor kid had no idea what just happened so she could not stop screaming and crying. We quickly tried to clean up the mess.
Next, we needed to get the rental car. To do this, we needed to step into the full Provencal sun in Khoo-melting heat. As soon as the sunlight touched Chloe's face, she screeched like a vampire -- too hot!!!!! Too hot!!!!! And thusly we wheeled our wailing child quickly to the car park, dodging the sun at every possible tree shade. Finally I managed to fashion a curtain out of my jacket, behind which she decided to hide behind forever, sniffing and sobbing.
While daddy was getting our car, Chloe let our a loud wail again. "I have to poo!!!!!" You've got to be kidding. I ran into the car rental place and made the mistake of asking for a toilet in English. The lady rolled her eyes and pointed at the train station. "But's an emergency!!!", as I pointed at my child whom she can clearly hear the wails from. She rolled her eyes again and pointed at the train station. Ugh. I contemplated leaving Isaac with grandma so I could run faster with Chloe, but Isaac was going through a phase where if I was more than 2 feet away he would scream. No, Isaac stays strapped on my sling. We ran back to the bathroom at the train station.
Finally, we got our rental car. Chloe was terrified of motion sickness and refused to leave her stroller. We finally convinced her and went to our rental home. After arrival, she vomitted 2 more times. She was out like a light that night from all the crying that day.
Vomit aside, Avignon turns out to be as beautiful as we imagined. It reminds me of Hawaii. The blue skies, warm sun, beautiful plants, hardly any mosquitoes. Our home is gorgeous. Our pool refreshing. Everyone is recovering from some form of cold and not enough rest. Chloe was back to normal the next day, and running circles around our house. What a perfect spot to slow down, take a breath of fresh air, and do nothing but just live a good life.
Paris: A True Family First City
This was supposed to be the crown jewel for at least myself when we went off on this journey. In fact, my initial itinerary called for 6 weeks Paris and 6 weeks not Paris. The prospect of great food (which it delivered in spades), amazing culture, and historical sites was too large to not spend the more significant portion of time here. Not to mention, Paris got a ringing endorsement from my favorite uber-travel nerd Rick Steves' France 2011:
"There are two Frances: Paris... and the rest of the country. France's top-down government and cultural energy have alway been centered ion Paris, resulting in an overwhelming concentration of world-class museums, cutting-edge architecture, and historic monuments. Travelers can spend weeks in France and never leave Paris. Many do."
Now for some rambling thoughts...
Food:
As opposed to London, Paris is a true culinary city. A city, and perhaps country philosophy towards the preparation and quality (not quantity) is immediately noticeable. I remember seeing Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations show on London and his argument saying how London is on par with Paris for food. The only thing I'd say to that is it may apply to him since he's eating at all the best places ALL the time. In London I can think of one meal that stood out. In Paris, I never had a bad meal. The food was always fresh, the cheese was always stinky, and the wine was always perfect.
Transport:
Ok. One knock here. I got spoiled by London I guess, but Paris' Metro seems very very antiquated when compared to the Underground of London. I'll start off with the poor signs they have in Paris. The signs for the Metro vary between Arrondissements making them extremely difficult to spot. Would it make more sense to use big letters in BOLD? London has got it right. A great symbol that is a stark contrast to the buildings they are on and can be spotted far away. The Paris Metro is composed of a swack of lines (Metro & RER) that is a mess which could require you to catch 3 trains in the first 2 zones. The efficiency of London's is once again miles ahead with a well thought out mesh of rails. The only charming thing I really enjoyed were the buskers that go on the metro to play a tune while you are squashed in there like a can of sardines.
Attractions:
I mentioned before how impressed I was by London's attractions - and I think Paris' are just as good. A big difference though is the land that the Paris ones are situated on. Not among the skyscrapers in downtown, but Paris landmarks are usually on a plot of land with perfectly manicured gardens and huge spaces for you to enjoy along with the attractions. Another thing is that Paris attractions seem to be the biggest buildings in the city that are easily recognizable from many rooftops.
A True Sense Of Community:
A stark contrast that we found extremely interesting was while London you can feel the hustle and pace of the city, on the flipslip you are able to feel the sense of community and family values that Parisians seem to possess. In London parks they were few and far between, and when we did find them they were bare with most of the patrons being tourists like us. In Paris, outside is where they seem to play. For the first time in a while, kids are choosing to play outside rather than on Facebook or playing Call of Duty. All of the parks we went to were packed to the brim with local school kids just being kids. My daughter soon found out that pretending that you are pirates hunting for treasure is truly a universal game.
All in all, we love both Paris & London but would have to definitely give a strong preference to Paris. Two unique experiences that are hard to compare to one another.
Next City is Avignon!
"There are two Frances: Paris... and the rest of the country. France's top-down government and cultural energy have alway been centered ion Paris, resulting in an overwhelming concentration of world-class museums, cutting-edge architecture, and historic monuments. Travelers can spend weeks in France and never leave Paris. Many do."
Now for some rambling thoughts...
Food:
As opposed to London, Paris is a true culinary city. A city, and perhaps country philosophy towards the preparation and quality (not quantity) is immediately noticeable. I remember seeing Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations show on London and his argument saying how London is on par with Paris for food. The only thing I'd say to that is it may apply to him since he's eating at all the best places ALL the time. In London I can think of one meal that stood out. In Paris, I never had a bad meal. The food was always fresh, the cheese was always stinky, and the wine was always perfect.
Transport:
Ok. One knock here. I got spoiled by London I guess, but Paris' Metro seems very very antiquated when compared to the Underground of London. I'll start off with the poor signs they have in Paris. The signs for the Metro vary between Arrondissements making them extremely difficult to spot. Would it make more sense to use big letters in BOLD? London has got it right. A great symbol that is a stark contrast to the buildings they are on and can be spotted far away. The Paris Metro is composed of a swack of lines (Metro & RER) that is a mess which could require you to catch 3 trains in the first 2 zones. The efficiency of London's is once again miles ahead with a well thought out mesh of rails. The only charming thing I really enjoyed were the buskers that go on the metro to play a tune while you are squashed in there like a can of sardines.
Attractions:
I mentioned before how impressed I was by London's attractions - and I think Paris' are just as good. A big difference though is the land that the Paris ones are situated on. Not among the skyscrapers in downtown, but Paris landmarks are usually on a plot of land with perfectly manicured gardens and huge spaces for you to enjoy along with the attractions. Another thing is that Paris attractions seem to be the biggest buildings in the city that are easily recognizable from many rooftops.
A True Sense Of Community:
A stark contrast that we found extremely interesting was while London you can feel the hustle and pace of the city, on the flipslip you are able to feel the sense of community and family values that Parisians seem to possess. In London parks they were few and far between, and when we did find them they were bare with most of the patrons being tourists like us. In Paris, outside is where they seem to play. For the first time in a while, kids are choosing to play outside rather than on Facebook or playing Call of Duty. All of the parks we went to were packed to the brim with local school kids just being kids. My daughter soon found out that pretending that you are pirates hunting for treasure is truly a universal game.
All in all, we love both Paris & London but would have to definitely give a strong preference to Paris. Two unique experiences that are hard to compare to one another.
Next City is Avignon!
2011-06-26
Review on the Run: Versailles (4.5 out 5)
"If you're planning to visit just one palace in all of Europe, make it Versailles"
- Rick Steves
The Palace of Versailles estates is ridiculously enormous and over-the-top. It's hard to believe that all this belonged to just the royal family at one point. Now it is completely mobbed by tourists. The palace was gorgeous inside, but the mob so bad that we felt claustrophobic and helpless. Saying it is shoulder to shoulder slow shuffle is an understatement. I say it is more like an ear to ear, slow painful drip down the narrow corridors, with one way standstill traffic gawking over gold-gilded over-the-top state apartment after state apartment. After seeing 2 rooms, everything else states to glaze over and look the same. Rooms 3-10 we were gasping for air like fish out of water, looking for the nearest exit. Leave your kids out of this awful mess.
The gardens were manicured and beautiful. Free too! We spent 18 Euros per ticket for the palaces, but spent much more time enjoying the free gardens. The trianon palaces were very quiet and the courtyards are serene.
Do I agree with Rick? Well, the palace really is gorgeous in an over the top way, but you absolutely must go through it before the mobs arrive, as it is the absolute worst mob I have ever experienced. With kids the mob experience is multiplied 10 fold. Make sure they go the the toilets before being trapped inside the Chateau with a point of no return.
- Rick Steves
The Palace of Versailles estates is ridiculously enormous and over-the-top. It's hard to believe that all this belonged to just the royal family at one point. Now it is completely mobbed by tourists. The palace was gorgeous inside, but the mob so bad that we felt claustrophobic and helpless. Saying it is shoulder to shoulder slow shuffle is an understatement. I say it is more like an ear to ear, slow painful drip down the narrow corridors, with one way standstill traffic gawking over gold-gilded over-the-top state apartment after state apartment. After seeing 2 rooms, everything else states to glaze over and look the same. Rooms 3-10 we were gasping for air like fish out of water, looking for the nearest exit. Leave your kids out of this awful mess.
The gardens were manicured and beautiful. Free too! We spent 18 Euros per ticket for the palaces, but spent much more time enjoying the free gardens. The trianon palaces were very quiet and the courtyards are serene.
Do I agree with Rick? Well, the palace really is gorgeous in an over the top way, but you absolutely must go through it before the mobs arrive, as it is the absolute worst mob I have ever experienced. With kids the mob experience is multiplied 10 fold. Make sure they go the the toilets before being trapped inside the Chateau with a point of no return.
Review on the Run: Musee Rodin (3 out 5), Champ de Mars (3 out of 5), Notre Dame Gardens (3 out 5)
Musee Rodin
When you don't feel like paying full admission to be cultured in an art musuem, only to be dragged outside by your bored nagging kids, come to Musee Rodin. We didn't go inside the museum, but we opted to be cultured outside, in the the beautiful garden with Rodin sculptures. Our whole family got in the garden for 1 Euro. We had lunch in front of the Thinker. Chloe hunted for all the sculptures on the handy museum map, and Isaac crawled around stroked the grass. The grass was a treat because a lot of parks in Paris with don't allow anyone on the grass, or is laced with dog poo that I wouldn't want Isaac scooping up. This place is worth a lunch pit stop.
Champ de Mars
This the park right beside the Eiffel Tower. The park on its own really isn't a big deal, but its backdrop is unbeatable. You can get great shots of the Eiffel tower here while the kiddies get amused by the playgrounds.
Notre Dame Gardens
Behind Notre Dame, there is a tranquil garden that is not overrun by tourists. We made a pit stop here because there was cellist busking right by a big shady sand pit. Since we were only 5 minutes walk home, we unleashed Isaac all over the sand. I think he ate a couple of mouthfuls but managed to amazingly miss his eyes while flicking sand profusely. There is some playground equipment scattered about, and some nice trees, but nothing that is spectacular on its own besides the fact that there is a huge gothic cathedral in the background, with someone playing Pachebel's Canon on cello while your children play in the sand
When you don't feel like paying full admission to be cultured in an art musuem, only to be dragged outside by your bored nagging kids, come to Musee Rodin. We didn't go inside the museum, but we opted to be cultured outside, in the the beautiful garden with Rodin sculptures. Our whole family got in the garden for 1 Euro. We had lunch in front of the Thinker. Chloe hunted for all the sculptures on the handy museum map, and Isaac crawled around stroked the grass. The grass was a treat because a lot of parks in Paris with don't allow anyone on the grass, or is laced with dog poo that I wouldn't want Isaac scooping up. This place is worth a lunch pit stop.
Champ de Mars
This the park right beside the Eiffel Tower. The park on its own really isn't a big deal, but its backdrop is unbeatable. You can get great shots of the Eiffel tower here while the kiddies get amused by the playgrounds.
Notre Dame Gardens
Behind Notre Dame, there is a tranquil garden that is not overrun by tourists. We made a pit stop here because there was cellist busking right by a big shady sand pit. Since we were only 5 minutes walk home, we unleashed Isaac all over the sand. I think he ate a couple of mouthfuls but managed to amazingly miss his eyes while flicking sand profusely. There is some playground equipment scattered about, and some nice trees, but nothing that is spectacular on its own besides the fact that there is a huge gothic cathedral in the background, with someone playing Pachebel's Canon on cello while your children play in the sand
Review on the Run: Bois de Boulogne Jardin d'Acclimation (4 out of 5)
Bois de Boulogne is one of the 2 massive parks that are remnants of the old oak forests surrounding Paris (the other being Bois de Vincenne). It's about 2.5 times the size of central park in New York, so we weren't going to hike all over this thing. We only ended up going to Jardin d'Acclimation portion, where there are lots of kiddie attractions.
To get into the park, we took a petit train from Porte Maillot metro stop into the heart of the action. Don't come here if you plan to save money. There is an amusement park, attractions like remote control boats, trampolines, carnival style games, etc. Each ticket or "attraction" takes 1 ticket that works out to be 2-3 Euros. There are a lot of tame rides for young kids. Of course, there are lots of free amusements too, like playgrounds, zoos, and albino peacocks, peahens, and peachicks roaming freely about. I saw some signs for yoga and some sort of dance workout for adults.
We ate at Angelina's, which was famous for its hot chocolate. Of course, I only found that out the next day after we left. I missed out on the cup of hot melted chocolate. Grrr.
This park was worth a day trip out. The kids had great fun.
To get into the park, we took a petit train from Porte Maillot metro stop into the heart of the action. Don't come here if you plan to save money. There is an amusement park, attractions like remote control boats, trampolines, carnival style games, etc. Each ticket or "attraction" takes 1 ticket that works out to be 2-3 Euros. There are a lot of tame rides for young kids. Of course, there are lots of free amusements too, like playgrounds, zoos, and albino peacocks, peahens, and peachicks roaming freely about. I saw some signs for yoga and some sort of dance workout for adults.
We ate at Angelina's, which was famous for its hot chocolate. Of course, I only found that out the next day after we left. I missed out on the cup of hot melted chocolate. Grrr.
This park was worth a day trip out. The kids had great fun.
2011-06-22
Weekly Wackies - Week 4-5
- Walking in Paris is easy and rewarding. Shops and beautiful buildings and landscaping make the walk seem short. There are more and more days here where we don't get on a single vehicle.
- The stroller is a life-saver. Most streets are very stroller friendly, other than occasional stairs, especially in metro stations. We have used it for naps, booting it quickly between attractions, glorified shopping cart, jackets hanger, plus more.
- Packing light is a big difference. Our family with 2 young kids had 2 bags to take on the train. We saw another family with only a baby about Isaac's age who brought 9 bags, complete with play pen, bugaboo in its fashionable cover, etc. Poor dad was sweating bullets.
- Fete de la Musique in Paris was yesterday (summer solstice). The city comes alive with music. Amateur musicians come out and play too. Our grocer at the Marche went busking on metro after selling us carrots. Isaac enjoyed the Polynesian dance at Luxembourg Gardens, and the band below our apartment.
- There is reason why rain gutters are bigger in Paris. Yes, it rains a lot.
- Baby formula comes in "Pain au Chocolat" flavor. Nestle makes vanilla baby cereal that tastes good enough for adults to eat. Alas, it is still not enough to entice Isaac back to baby food. He prefers croissants, foie gras, and orange duck.
2011-06-20
Review on the Run: Eiffel Tower (4 of 5)
The cousins from Cardiff have joined us in Paris for 5 days so the first sight we saw was the Eiffel Tower!
Eiffel Tower (4 of 5)
The world famous landmark was built in 1889 as part of the World Fair in Paris. The designer was Gustave Eiffel who beat out many other designs that included a giant guillotine (how cheezy!). It's funny, but we've waited so long to see this and have seen it from afar from every other location in Paris that it felt a little anti-climactic finally coming here. From an Engineering standpoint it was so well designed that it weighs no more than 64 lbs per square inch at its base. From a Project Management standpoint, 300 men took only 2 years to build for only 1.5M Francs - a total they they almost recovered from the 1889 World Fair sales alone. Today there are roughly 7M people that visit the Tower - so it is crowded. If you don't happen to do advance online bookings (which you usually have to do one month in advance) which gets you an exact time slot of entry, then the best time to go is either first thing in the morning or last thing at night. The tower opened at 9:30am, we started to line up at 9:15am and was up the tower by 9:45am. We've heard line-ups during prime time (11am-4pm) can be up to 1 hours long and the Museum Pass is not accepted here. There are 3 levels in the Tower (1, 2, and the top). I'd recommend only getting a ticket to the 2nd level, especially with kids. The summit can only hold 65 people at a given time and can be nothing but wind up there. The views are better from the 2nd level where the monuments are closer and more recognizable. You can take the stairs if you wish. It is ~350 to Level 1, ~650 to Level 2, and ~1650 to the summit. If you really want to take the stairs, take the elevator up, and the stairs down - much easier on the kids... and the quads. Is it worth the trouble? Of course! So why only 4 of 5? I find the Eiffel tower is best enjoyed from afar (from Trocadero or similiar) where you can actually see the tower. Although the views of Paris are better from the Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame, you simply cannot have a stay in Paris without seeing this tower up close.
Eiffel Tower (4 of 5)
The world famous landmark was built in 1889 as part of the World Fair in Paris. The designer was Gustave Eiffel who beat out many other designs that included a giant guillotine (how cheezy!). It's funny, but we've waited so long to see this and have seen it from afar from every other location in Paris that it felt a little anti-climactic finally coming here. From an Engineering standpoint it was so well designed that it weighs no more than 64 lbs per square inch at its base. From a Project Management standpoint, 300 men took only 2 years to build for only 1.5M Francs - a total they they almost recovered from the 1889 World Fair sales alone. Today there are roughly 7M people that visit the Tower - so it is crowded. If you don't happen to do advance online bookings (which you usually have to do one month in advance) which gets you an exact time slot of entry, then the best time to go is either first thing in the morning or last thing at night. The tower opened at 9:30am, we started to line up at 9:15am and was up the tower by 9:45am. We've heard line-ups during prime time (11am-4pm) can be up to 1 hours long and the Museum Pass is not accepted here. There are 3 levels in the Tower (1, 2, and the top). I'd recommend only getting a ticket to the 2nd level, especially with kids. The summit can only hold 65 people at a given time and can be nothing but wind up there. The views are better from the 2nd level where the monuments are closer and more recognizable. You can take the stairs if you wish. It is ~350 to Level 1, ~650 to Level 2, and ~1650 to the summit. If you really want to take the stairs, take the elevator up, and the stairs down - much easier on the kids... and the quads. Is it worth the trouble? Of course! So why only 4 of 5? I find the Eiffel tower is best enjoyed from afar (from Trocadero or similiar) where you can actually see the tower. Although the views of Paris are better from the Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame, you simply cannot have a stay in Paris without seeing this tower up close.
2011-06-16
Review on the Run: Parc Asterix (4 of 5)
An aboslute headache getting there was followed thankfully by a great experience at the park.
Parc Asterix (4 of 5)
This park which was constructed in 1989 is based on the Asterix series that originated in France in 1959. The premise of the comic makes for the makign of a great theme park as the park is separated by different lands (Vikings, Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians) which are featured in the comics. With Disneyland just a stones throw away, you may wonder how this park survives. The best way I can describe it is comparing Legoland and Disneyland in California. They are after distinctly different crowds. Where Disney concentrates on the spectable, Parc Asterix manages to keep it simple with many rollercoasters & wet rides. The major plus is that if you have a kid between the ages of 4-8, the rides seem almost tailormade since they can basically go on 95% of the rides which make it more of a fulfilling experience. As I mentioned with Jardin du Luxembourg, Parc Asterix is VERY French and not many non-French people. So much so that many workers cannot speak English, whereas in Disney everyone is required to be bilingual. Getting there was another experience...
According to their ghetto website they have ONE shuttle bus that leaves at 0845 in the morning from the Louvre. If you miss this shuttle, you have to catch a shuttle from the airport (50 minutes away) or taxi it (a 100 Euro ride). So we got there at 0830, bought our shuttle tickets and waited for the bus. Quick math question - if there are 100 seats how many tickets should you sell? If you guessed 150, you should work for Parc Asterix! We got on one of two buses when the bus driver realized that there were not enough seats. So he made us wait for 2 hours (literally) while another bus came. I seriously thought there was going to be a riot. He locked us in the bus at onbe point without the A/C on or anything - and yes there were many kids on the bus. He switched it on only after several people started to kick the bus door. Logic would dictate to instead of making everyone suffer by waiting, that he drive the bus load to the Park while the other employees waited for another bus to organize transport. I'd recommend getting there another way (via airport shuttle) instead of using this service.
Parc Asterix (4 of 5)
This park which was constructed in 1989 is based on the Asterix series that originated in France in 1959. The premise of the comic makes for the makign of a great theme park as the park is separated by different lands (Vikings, Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians) which are featured in the comics. With Disneyland just a stones throw away, you may wonder how this park survives. The best way I can describe it is comparing Legoland and Disneyland in California. They are after distinctly different crowds. Where Disney concentrates on the spectable, Parc Asterix manages to keep it simple with many rollercoasters & wet rides. The major plus is that if you have a kid between the ages of 4-8, the rides seem almost tailormade since they can basically go on 95% of the rides which make it more of a fulfilling experience. As I mentioned with Jardin du Luxembourg, Parc Asterix is VERY French and not many non-French people. So much so that many workers cannot speak English, whereas in Disney everyone is required to be bilingual. Getting there was another experience...
According to their ghetto website they have ONE shuttle bus that leaves at 0845 in the morning from the Louvre. If you miss this shuttle, you have to catch a shuttle from the airport (50 minutes away) or taxi it (a 100 Euro ride). So we got there at 0830, bought our shuttle tickets and waited for the bus. Quick math question - if there are 100 seats how many tickets should you sell? If you guessed 150, you should work for Parc Asterix! We got on one of two buses when the bus driver realized that there were not enough seats. So he made us wait for 2 hours (literally) while another bus came. I seriously thought there was going to be a riot. He locked us in the bus at onbe point without the A/C on or anything - and yes there were many kids on the bus. He switched it on only after several people started to kick the bus door. Logic would dictate to instead of making everyone suffer by waiting, that he drive the bus load to the Park while the other employees waited for another bus to organize transport. I'd recommend getting there another way (via airport shuttle) instead of using this service.
Review on the Run: Pompidou (3.5 out of 5), McDonald's (3.5 out of 5), Notre Dame Cathedral views (5 out 5)
Pompidou
Pompidou is the National Museum of Modern Art. It sticks out from afar because it looks like a big industrial building with colorful pipes spilled inside out. Chloe has a thing with escalators, so she was psyched about going up 6 stories of escalators. The ride up was actually part of the art display -- it was called "Sound Walk" because there is CD playing in the background that sounds like a long chant from monks in a cave. Isaac was intrigued by the music. The view from the top is pretty nice, and we didn't have to even climb any stairs.
I didn't think young kids would get much out modern art, but Chloe surprised me by commenting that an abstract self-portrait of a man was actually "eggs inside eggs". I read the description and she was right! There was also a neat display of a room that looked like a black and white striped cave where kids liked to run and stomp to hear the loud echoes. Another highlight was a giant mushroom like in the Smurfs. Apologies to the artists that I can't recall their names :P
McDonald's
McDonald's is worth honorable mentions because it was the classiest McDonalds we have ever been to. The McCafe inside sells macarons and baked goods that look better than Starbuck's. Down the spiral staircase was a room with cushy booths, classy bar stools, and modern art murals. Happy meal was 4 Euros. I saw some people have fries with mayo, and I got a McCroc.
Notre Dame Cathedral views
There was a previous post about Notre Dame cathedral, so this one is only about the tour (walk up to the top). The views are awesome. The bell that Quasimodo rings is cool. The gargoyles are awesome. It's worth the climb. You can't bypass the huge line up with your museum pass, but you might be able to skip it by showing your cute baby and little girl :) Seriously...
Pompidou is the National Museum of Modern Art. It sticks out from afar because it looks like a big industrial building with colorful pipes spilled inside out. Chloe has a thing with escalators, so she was psyched about going up 6 stories of escalators. The ride up was actually part of the art display -- it was called "Sound Walk" because there is CD playing in the background that sounds like a long chant from monks in a cave. Isaac was intrigued by the music. The view from the top is pretty nice, and we didn't have to even climb any stairs.
I didn't think young kids would get much out modern art, but Chloe surprised me by commenting that an abstract self-portrait of a man was actually "eggs inside eggs". I read the description and she was right! There was also a neat display of a room that looked like a black and white striped cave where kids liked to run and stomp to hear the loud echoes. Another highlight was a giant mushroom like in the Smurfs. Apologies to the artists that I can't recall their names :P
McDonald's
McDonald's is worth honorable mentions because it was the classiest McDonalds we have ever been to. The McCafe inside sells macarons and baked goods that look better than Starbuck's. Down the spiral staircase was a room with cushy booths, classy bar stools, and modern art murals. Happy meal was 4 Euros. I saw some people have fries with mayo, and I got a McCroc.
Notre Dame Cathedral views
There was a previous post about Notre Dame cathedral, so this one is only about the tour (walk up to the top). The views are awesome. The bell that Quasimodo rings is cool. The gargoyles are awesome. It's worth the climb. You can't bypass the huge line up with your museum pass, but you might be able to skip it by showing your cute baby and little girl :) Seriously...
Review on the Run: Jardin du Luxembourg (4.5 out of 5)
We heard a local say "Jardin de Tuileries is for the tourists. The locals go to Jardin du Luxembourg." I agree.
Stepping out of the Luxembourg station, we were engulfed in a sea of red-capped French kids just coming out of the school early as per every Wednesday. We were thinking, great, the park will be swamped with kids. We were so wrong. There's something about these vast city parks that seem to be always big enough to engulf limitless amounts of people and still have enough chairs and benches for you to find your own oasis. They are smart -- every inch of space is interesting so the crowd can evenly disperse themselves. There are areas designated for playing chess, playing petanque, playgrounds, sailing toy boats etc. It's not just one big green patch.
Jardin Luxembourg gardens is beautifully landscaped, with formal gardens gracing the front of the Luxembourg palace. The best part was the GINORMOUS playground. The entrance fee was 2.50Euros but well worth it. Chloe ran for 4 hours straight and if we didn't stop her, she could have easily camped out overnight here.
Kids are great ice-breaker topics. We chatted with some interesting people, and an old granny fawned over Isaac and said if they sold a doll made exactly like him in a store, she would snatch him up.
Beautiful.
Stepping out of the Luxembourg station, we were engulfed in a sea of red-capped French kids just coming out of the school early as per every Wednesday. We were thinking, great, the park will be swamped with kids. We were so wrong. There's something about these vast city parks that seem to be always big enough to engulf limitless amounts of people and still have enough chairs and benches for you to find your own oasis. They are smart -- every inch of space is interesting so the crowd can evenly disperse themselves. There are areas designated for playing chess, playing petanque, playgrounds, sailing toy boats etc. It's not just one big green patch.
Jardin Luxembourg gardens is beautifully landscaped, with formal gardens gracing the front of the Luxembourg palace. The best part was the GINORMOUS playground. The entrance fee was 2.50Euros but well worth it. Chloe ran for 4 hours straight and if we didn't stop her, she could have easily camped out overnight here.
Kids are great ice-breaker topics. We chatted with some interesting people, and an old granny fawned over Isaac and said if they sold a doll made exactly like him in a store, she would snatch him up.
Beautiful.
2011-06-13
Review on the Run: Musee D'Orsay (4.5 of 5), Jardin des Tuileries (4.5 of 5), Musee de l'Orangerie (2 of 5), Place de la Concorde (3.5 of 5), Champs-Elysees (1 of 5), Arc de Triomphe (5 of 5)
Wow what a day. The kids held out great as we did a lot of walking. This time we decided to start the day off early since everyone was up by 7:45am and took the bus to Musee D'Orsay. After which we crossed the bridge to the North Bank to spend the afternoon in Tuileries Gardens and Musee d'Orangerie before making the historic walk to the Arc de Triomphe via Place de la Concorde and Champs-Elysees. Here is a link of our itinerary.
Musee D'Orsay (4.5 of 5)
Packed in a stylish retrofitted train station, is French art from the 1800-early 1900s that picks up where the Louvre ends. You will see works of art from Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Rodin etc. that you will recognize from your art history text books or movies. So if you don't get a chance to go specifically to the Rodin museum for example, coming here should tie you over sufficiently. One thing that I found really appealing is the variety in works since it spans the old, new, and revolutionary. The second best art museum we've visited so far in Paris and wish that we had more time here.
Jardin des Tuileries (4.5 of 5)
The location of the Tuileries Garden makes it a great place to take a break from all the sightseeing as it links the Louvre, Orangerie, Je de Paume, Orsay, and Place de la Concorde. Not only because of the location though, but it has a bunch of stuff for the kids that include a playground, merry-go-round, mini sailboats, and trampolines.
Musee de l'Orangerie (2 of 5)
I'll admit that our heart wasn't in it in the first place as we really came to this museum to use a clean washroom for a quick nappy change. Our Museum Pass afforded us walking straight in so we checked out the major exhibit that featured Monet's Water Lily series of paintings. Basically the way Money painted this, it covered 6500 sq ft (yes that is just the painting, and was meant to be viewed in a circular room. As such, you enter 2 circular rooms that show a painting that wraps 360 degrees. Interesting yes but only for a minute. BTW the washrooms were clean.
Place de la Concorde (3.5 of 5)
As you know, in terms of squares I was not a fan of Trafalgar square and am glad to say that Place de la Concorde was more my style of what a city square should be. A good size space with a massive size traffic circle, it is home to one of the Luxor Obelisks - a gift from Egypt in the early 1800's. It was transported using major waterways piece by piece and took almost 4 years to move the thing.
Champs-Elysees (1 of 5)
People talk a lot about this boulevard and how it is a must to trek it from the Louvre to the Arc - a 45 minute walk or so. Walking along this street is over-hyped but at least I can say I did it, with kids, which is more impressive since it took us 90 minutes. A good place to people watch though as we saw a break-dancing competition, a fight break out between a guy that we cursing at Turkey outside of the Turkey tourism board and a passerby that was from Turkey (which subsequently got broken-up by plain clothes policemen), and tourist almost getting clipped trying to take photos of the Arc while standing in the middle of the road. If you have kids, I'd recommend to skip the walk, save the energy and headaches, and take the Metro to the Arc from the Louvre.
Arc de Triomphe (5 of 5)
Ah yes, finally the "piece de resistance" of the day which I'm glad to say ended in spectacular fashion. Napolean had the Arc created to mark his victory at the battle of Austerlitz and made it the biggest (165 ft high, 130 ft wide) in the world. As Rick puts it:
"With 12 converging boulevards, there's no traffic circle more thrilling to experience - either from behind the wheel or on foot (take the underpass)"
The foot of the arch is the stage of some major events of the past 200 years of French history such as Napolean's funeral and the arrival of the Nazis and ending with Charles de Gaulle's return after an Allied liberation. The walk to the top of the arch (287 steps) offers another breath-taking vantage point that is becoming a common theme in Paris. Do yourself a favour and ensure you go up - with a Museum Pass of course.
Musee D'Orsay (4.5 of 5)
Packed in a stylish retrofitted train station, is French art from the 1800-early 1900s that picks up where the Louvre ends. You will see works of art from Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Rodin etc. that you will recognize from your art history text books or movies. So if you don't get a chance to go specifically to the Rodin museum for example, coming here should tie you over sufficiently. One thing that I found really appealing is the variety in works since it spans the old, new, and revolutionary. The second best art museum we've visited so far in Paris and wish that we had more time here.
Jardin des Tuileries (4.5 of 5)
The location of the Tuileries Garden makes it a great place to take a break from all the sightseeing as it links the Louvre, Orangerie, Je de Paume, Orsay, and Place de la Concorde. Not only because of the location though, but it has a bunch of stuff for the kids that include a playground, merry-go-round, mini sailboats, and trampolines.
Musee de l'Orangerie (2 of 5)
I'll admit that our heart wasn't in it in the first place as we really came to this museum to use a clean washroom for a quick nappy change. Our Museum Pass afforded us walking straight in so we checked out the major exhibit that featured Monet's Water Lily series of paintings. Basically the way Money painted this, it covered 6500 sq ft (yes that is just the painting, and was meant to be viewed in a circular room. As such, you enter 2 circular rooms that show a painting that wraps 360 degrees. Interesting yes but only for a minute. BTW the washrooms were clean.
Place de la Concorde (3.5 of 5)
As you know, in terms of squares I was not a fan of Trafalgar square and am glad to say that Place de la Concorde was more my style of what a city square should be. A good size space with a massive size traffic circle, it is home to one of the Luxor Obelisks - a gift from Egypt in the early 1800's. It was transported using major waterways piece by piece and took almost 4 years to move the thing.
Champs-Elysees (1 of 5)
People talk a lot about this boulevard and how it is a must to trek it from the Louvre to the Arc - a 45 minute walk or so. Walking along this street is over-hyped but at least I can say I did it, with kids, which is more impressive since it took us 90 minutes. A good place to people watch though as we saw a break-dancing competition, a fight break out between a guy that we cursing at Turkey outside of the Turkey tourism board and a passerby that was from Turkey (which subsequently got broken-up by plain clothes policemen), and tourist almost getting clipped trying to take photos of the Arc while standing in the middle of the road. If you have kids, I'd recommend to skip the walk, save the energy and headaches, and take the Metro to the Arc from the Louvre.
Arc de Triomphe (5 of 5)
Ah yes, finally the "piece de resistance" of the day which I'm glad to say ended in spectacular fashion. Napolean had the Arc created to mark his victory at the battle of Austerlitz and made it the biggest (165 ft high, 130 ft wide) in the world. As Rick puts it:
"With 12 converging boulevards, there's no traffic circle more thrilling to experience - either from behind the wheel or on foot (take the underpass)"
The foot of the arch is the stage of some major events of the past 200 years of French history such as Napolean's funeral and the arrival of the Nazis and ending with Charles de Gaulle's return after an Allied liberation. The walk to the top of the arch (287 steps) offers another breath-taking vantage point that is becoming a common theme in Paris. Do yourself a favour and ensure you go up - with a Museum Pass of course.
Weekly Wackies - Week 3
Paris has been as French as we ever imagined. The food IS amazing. They DO dress better. And they DO like to see you limp your way through a conversation in French rather than use English.
- There are buskers everywhere. Even when riding on the metro. Yes, we could a couple of accordian shows. Isaac is particularly mesmerized by each type of musical performance.
- Directly downstairs from our apartment, we are blessed with a bakery, a chocolate store, a creperie, cheese store, Berthillon ice cream store, a convenient store. Within a block away, we have a pharmacy, foie gras and truffles store, confectionary store, a butchery, and small beautiful restaurants with many breakable glasses. Talk about convenience. Each neighbourhood is supposed to have their own set of these conveniently stores.
- There are crepes everywhere. It's their fast food.
- Chloe's diet consists of baguette, pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant), and Nutella crepes every day.
- The baguettes! The croissants! The macarons! Foie gras! Oh la la!
- By now we are very lax with letting Isaac crawl anywhere so the poor kid isn't strapped in all day. Yes, we get some dirty disapproving looks, but hey that's what the wipes and hand sanitizers are for. Most people have big smiles when they see him. Let him grow!
- Isaac now says mama, dada, and jie jie (big sister), and mum mum (to eat). Every time we eat something good, he yells mum mum and pounces for it.
Review on the Run: Galeries LaFayette (5 out of 5)
If there is one department store you could go to in the world, make it Galaries Lafayette in Paris. Not only can you browse the latest fashions, toys, accessories, you can also see a free fashion show (you can reserve seats by sending them an email). The fashion show took place in their top floor lounge. Chloe loved it, and even daddy enjoyed the show -- though he didn't know where to put his eyes when the models came with see-through tops :) This place is huge. And gorgeous. So beautiful it puts Harrods to shame. Even if you don't shop, just come and soak up the ambience and look at the soaring ceilings and gold plated ornate decorations. The kids enjoyed the expensive toys. We enjoyed the huge food hall. We were half expecting to be snubbed because of our lovely tourist look, but the service wasn't bad. It could be because of the "Les Enfants" effect.
2011-06-12
Review on the Run: Saint Chapelle (5 of 5), Conciergerie (2 of 5), Crypt Archeologique (1 of 5)
Day 26 called for a refuel on food, so we headed to the Baudoyer Market close by our apartment and picked up a lot of fresh produce. After dropping everything off at our place and having lunch, we took a nice stroll to the adjacent island of Ill de la Cite to knock off Sainte-Chapelle. Since we had the museum pass, we also checked out the Conciergerie, which was next door, and finished off the day by seeing the Crypt Archeologique that spans under the square of the Notre Dame Cathedral. After yesterday's experience of getting lost on the RER, it was nice to not use any method of transport other than our ECCO shoes. Here is a link to our itinerary.
Sainte-Chapelle (5 of 5)
This was the first attraction (of many) that we really saw the usefulness of the Paris Museum Pass. Refer to a previous blog post here. We bypassed the huge queue to purchase tickets and walked straight in which was great! By the time we finished 45 minutes later, there we spotted the same people still in the queue. Anyways, I'll have to admit. Upon first walking into the main floor, I was like "ok big deal". It's not until we walked to the main room on the 1st floor that I understood what all the fuss was about. Sainte-Chapelle is a cathedral of stained glass like no other. Forget about it being a crowning achievement in Gothic church architecture, it is a crowning achievement in project management as it was built between 1242-1248 for King Louis IX. Consider that Notre Dame took over 200 years to build in the same time period, and this only took 5 years - which was unheard of in Gothic times. There are 15 separate panels of stained glass that cover 6500+ square feet and 1100 different scenes. Adding to the appeal of this experience, the legendary Crown of Thorns, yes think Passion of the Christ, used to be kept here and you have an overwhelming sense of the historic journey and significance Sainte-Chapelle has played. The Crown of Thorns was supposed to have cost King Louis 3 times as much as Sainte-Chapelle itself.
Conciergerie (2 of 5)
This former prison is adjacent to the Palais du Justice and 2 doors down from Sainte-Chapelle. It was a prison famous for being the last stop of almost 2800 victims of the guillotine including Marie-Antoinette. I was looking for the guillotine but unfortunately they didn't have one. I didn't find it that appealing and found the prisons at the Tower of London to be a lot more fun. Glad we came, but definitely would skip if we didn't have the museum pass that got us in for free.
Crypt Archeologique (1 of 5)
The crypt simply displays the foundation of the previous ninth century church where the current square outside Notre Dame resides. Extremely boring and not worth the visit - even though it was free with the museum pass.
Sainte-Chapelle (5 of 5)
This was the first attraction (of many) that we really saw the usefulness of the Paris Museum Pass. Refer to a previous blog post here. We bypassed the huge queue to purchase tickets and walked straight in which was great! By the time we finished 45 minutes later, there we spotted the same people still in the queue. Anyways, I'll have to admit. Upon first walking into the main floor, I was like "ok big deal". It's not until we walked to the main room on the 1st floor that I understood what all the fuss was about. Sainte-Chapelle is a cathedral of stained glass like no other. Forget about it being a crowning achievement in Gothic church architecture, it is a crowning achievement in project management as it was built between 1242-1248 for King Louis IX. Consider that Notre Dame took over 200 years to build in the same time period, and this only took 5 years - which was unheard of in Gothic times. There are 15 separate panels of stained glass that cover 6500+ square feet and 1100 different scenes. Adding to the appeal of this experience, the legendary Crown of Thorns, yes think Passion of the Christ, used to be kept here and you have an overwhelming sense of the historic journey and significance Sainte-Chapelle has played. The Crown of Thorns was supposed to have cost King Louis 3 times as much as Sainte-Chapelle itself.
Conciergerie (2 of 5)
This former prison is adjacent to the Palais du Justice and 2 doors down from Sainte-Chapelle. It was a prison famous for being the last stop of almost 2800 victims of the guillotine including Marie-Antoinette. I was looking for the guillotine but unfortunately they didn't have one. I didn't find it that appealing and found the prisons at the Tower of London to be a lot more fun. Glad we came, but definitely would skip if we didn't have the museum pass that got us in for free.
Crypt Archeologique (1 of 5)
The crypt simply displays the foundation of the previous ninth century church where the current square outside Notre Dame resides. Extremely boring and not worth the visit - even though it was free with the museum pass.
2011-06-11
Review on the Run: Musee de l''Armee (4.5 of 5), Musee du Louvre (5 of 5)
What started out as an interesting day of getting lost temporarily on the RER, turned out to be a great sightseeing day where we definitely pushed it a bit - but it was all worth it in the end. Here is a link to our original itinerary which included catching RER C to Metro Invalides, walk through Esplandade des Invalides to Musee de l'Armee, then across the street to Musee Rodin, and finishing off (time permitting) to Musee d'Orsay. This was our actual itinerary. Well, we get to the train station alright, but took the train in the wrong direction. Easy fix right? Just go on the other side of the tracks and catch the train going the other way. Apparently some RERs are set up such that ALL trains on a given platform head in one direction. Long story short, we ended up at Gare d'Austerlitz which turns out to be one GHETTO station. From the platform we take the only exist we could find that lead to a dimly lit series of 12 switchbacks with graffiti literally covering 95% of the walls. By the time we get to Musee de l'Armee we were almost 2 hours behind schedule. We made the most of the day by staying at Musee de l'Armee for 3 hours and took advantage of the Louvre being open to 10pm that day.
Musee de L'Armee (4.5 of 5)
A common theme that you will notice with many Paris museums is that the ground that they are built on are worth visiting even if you don't manage to make it in. This museum is no exception as the gardens surrounding the monster complex that houses Napolean's tomb is majestically lined with lime trees as you approach from Metro Invalides. In the UK, there are 5 separate museums that make up the Imperial War Museums. Imagine if all that content was in one place? This is what Musee de L'Armee offers to its patrons. A stunning collection of the history of war from ancient times right up until WWII. I was a huge fan of the Churchill Museum's high tech Mission Impossible feel and France's answer is an entire basement level dedicated to Charles De Gaulle where it is just as high tech straight from the Minority Report. In the North side, there is of course the tomb of Napolean along with other French war heroes encased inside a golden chapel. Thoroughly impressed overall and should make it on anyone's visit list if you have any interest in the art of war.
Musee du Louvre (5 of 5)
One caveat with this review, we didn't get a chance to see the whole museum. We only saw 1/2 of one wing (Denon) and will be back for more for sure. I'm confident that my rating won't change here though. The Louvre is a spectacle in itself where the architecture of the old (the 16th century palace) and the new (glass pyramid) meet in harmony on a grand scale. According to Rick, the Louvre is Europe's oldest, biggest, greatest, and second most visited (after the Vatican). The kids were getting VERY TIRED at this point, but Chloe had enough energy for one treasure hunt... the Mona Lisa! The info packet they give you actually point out the major displays on the map and Chloe found all 8 of them, with the final achievement being the mystery woman herself. It's funny, you are allowed to take pictures in the Louvre, as long as there is no flash. At the Mona Lisa, nobody seems to listen (or care) since it looked like a Paparazzi mob. Forget about whether you like art or not, it's just great to be part of the great vibe and energy of the place.
Musee de L'Armee (4.5 of 5)
A common theme that you will notice with many Paris museums is that the ground that they are built on are worth visiting even if you don't manage to make it in. This museum is no exception as the gardens surrounding the monster complex that houses Napolean's tomb is majestically lined with lime trees as you approach from Metro Invalides. In the UK, there are 5 separate museums that make up the Imperial War Museums. Imagine if all that content was in one place? This is what Musee de L'Armee offers to its patrons. A stunning collection of the history of war from ancient times right up until WWII. I was a huge fan of the Churchill Museum's high tech Mission Impossible feel and France's answer is an entire basement level dedicated to Charles De Gaulle where it is just as high tech straight from the Minority Report. In the North side, there is of course the tomb of Napolean along with other French war heroes encased inside a golden chapel. Thoroughly impressed overall and should make it on anyone's visit list if you have any interest in the art of war.
Musee du Louvre (5 of 5)
One caveat with this review, we didn't get a chance to see the whole museum. We only saw 1/2 of one wing (Denon) and will be back for more for sure. I'm confident that my rating won't change here though. The Louvre is a spectacle in itself where the architecture of the old (the 16th century palace) and the new (glass pyramid) meet in harmony on a grand scale. According to Rick, the Louvre is Europe's oldest, biggest, greatest, and second most visited (after the Vatican). The kids were getting VERY TIRED at this point, but Chloe had enough energy for one treasure hunt... the Mona Lisa! The info packet they give you actually point out the major displays on the map and Chloe found all 8 of them, with the final achievement being the mystery woman herself. It's funny, you are allowed to take pictures in the Louvre, as long as there is no flash. At the Mona Lisa, nobody seems to listen (or care) since it looked like a Paparazzi mob. Forget about whether you like art or not, it's just great to be part of the great vibe and energy of the place.
2011-06-10
The Paris Museum Pass
A quote courtesy of travel nerd and my idol Rick Steves that made me laugh:
"In Paris there are two classes of sightseers - those with a Paris Museum Pass, and those who stand in line."
What is it?
It is a pass that allows entry to more than 60 different museums and attractions in and around Paris including the Louvre, Versailles, Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, etc...)
Why buy it?
The #1 reason to purchase a museum pass is to bypass the lines to purchase tickets... since your pass is your ticket. Often there are separate entrances that are less crowded and are especially for pass holders. You spend less time waiting, and more time sightseeing. Also, just by having the pass encourages you to take in more sights than you would normally pass on since they are included.
How much does it cost?
They come in 2, 4, and 6 day quantities that cost 35, 50, and 60 Euros respectively. The pass is valid for a block of time starting on the first day you use it. To make you money back, using an average entry fee of 7 Euros you'd have to see 2.5 (for 2 day), 1.75 (for 4 day), and 1.42 (for 6 day) museums per day. Regardless of the math though, I'd gladly pay a little extra to not stand a couple hours waiting to get in to an attraction only to be disappointed afterwards.
Who should buy it?
Worth it for adults, not worth it for kids under 18 since they are free at almost every attraction. If you are an E.U. citizen, this age is extended to under 26. On that note, if you have young kids like us, be wary about getting the 6 day pass since it is the best value. First ask yourself whether you can handle 6 straight days of museums without taking a break for a day to shop at a market or something else. If you pass that, ask the same about your kids. We're opting to purchase two 4 day passes that we will use over two different periods of our stay.
"In Paris there are two classes of sightseers - those with a Paris Museum Pass, and those who stand in line."
What is it?
It is a pass that allows entry to more than 60 different museums and attractions in and around Paris including the Louvre, Versailles, Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, etc...)
Why buy it?
The #1 reason to purchase a museum pass is to bypass the lines to purchase tickets... since your pass is your ticket. Often there are separate entrances that are less crowded and are especially for pass holders. You spend less time waiting, and more time sightseeing. Also, just by having the pass encourages you to take in more sights than you would normally pass on since they are included.
How much does it cost?
They come in 2, 4, and 6 day quantities that cost 35, 50, and 60 Euros respectively. The pass is valid for a block of time starting on the first day you use it. To make you money back, using an average entry fee of 7 Euros you'd have to see 2.5 (for 2 day), 1.75 (for 4 day), and 1.42 (for 6 day) museums per day. Regardless of the math though, I'd gladly pay a little extra to not stand a couple hours waiting to get in to an attraction only to be disappointed afterwards.
Who should buy it?
Worth it for adults, not worth it for kids under 18 since they are free at almost every attraction. If you are an E.U. citizen, this age is extended to under 26. On that note, if you have young kids like us, be wary about getting the 6 day pass since it is the best value. First ask yourself whether you can handle 6 straight days of museums without taking a break for a day to shop at a market or something else. If you pass that, ask the same about your kids. We're opting to purchase two 4 day passes that we will use over two different periods of our stay.
Review on the Run: Disneyland Paris (3.5 of 5)
Day 24 was one that Chloe has been looking forward to for a long time. From the beginning when we asked Chloe what she thought about going to Europe, she wasn't a fan. I told her that in Paris they have a Disneyland there and that if we go, then we'd take her. Consider it mission completed in keeping our promise. Truth be told though, I was pretty excited too. Disney strikes a chord with many people - both positive and negative. Call me brainwashed, but I love Disney. With Paris out of the way, it makes it now 3 of 5 Disney parks I've been to. Only Tokyo and Hong Kong stand in my way!
Disneyland Paris (3.5 of 5)
A couple of caveats with this rating - it's really a comparison to both the Magic Kingdom in Orlando (which would get a 4.5 of 5) and the original Disneyland in Anaheim (which gets a 5 of 5). These 3 parks are more or less the same - so much so that you could probably take one map and successfully navigate yourself easily in each park. So why the discrepancy? Well, you know how you have that 2nd cousin that is sort of the black sheep of the family and tries to emulate you in every way but falls short in every area? Well this sums up Disneyland Paris when compared to Disneyland in Anaheim. Not that the one in Paris is bad - its just that the one in Anaheim is really just outstanding that it's a tough act to follow. Magic Kingdom almost did it but hasn't quite reached there, while Paris lags behind. At Disneyland Paris, there is 2 themeparks (Disneyland Paris and Walt Disney Studios) and a shopping complex (Disney Village). This strategy is mirrored across their other theme parks as well. Paris though lagged behind in the following areas:
Disneyland Paris (3.5 of 5)
A couple of caveats with this rating - it's really a comparison to both the Magic Kingdom in Orlando (which would get a 4.5 of 5) and the original Disneyland in Anaheim (which gets a 5 of 5). These 3 parks are more or less the same - so much so that you could probably take one map and successfully navigate yourself easily in each park. So why the discrepancy? Well, you know how you have that 2nd cousin that is sort of the black sheep of the family and tries to emulate you in every way but falls short in every area? Well this sums up Disneyland Paris when compared to Disneyland in Anaheim. Not that the one in Paris is bad - its just that the one in Anaheim is really just outstanding that it's a tough act to follow. Magic Kingdom almost did it but hasn't quite reached there, while Paris lags behind. At Disneyland Paris, there is 2 themeparks (Disneyland Paris and Walt Disney Studios) and a shopping complex (Disney Village). This strategy is mirrored across their other theme parks as well. Paris though lagged behind in the following areas:
- It is a physically smaller theme park without many attractions (Mickey Toontown for example) than their US counterparts.
- The vibe created in the States is truly impressive with excitement all-around. Here it is extremely laid back which brings me to...
- The workers here just don't seem to be nearly as attentive to visitors and part of the "well oiled machine" that is characteristic of the the States.
- The show at the end, yes the big finale that we stayed to watch, was a huge disappointment. No fire works, just a couple of people singing and dancing for 10 minutes and Au Revoir.
- The Walt Disney Studios (modeled after the park of the same name in Orlando) is probably 1/2 the size.
- Disney Village is just that... a Village compared to Downtown Disney in the States.
- The place is in top notch condition since the park is relatively new. In Anaheim you can definitely tell that some things are showing their age.
- I got to experience some rides I didn't have a chance to go on in the States and they were great. The look on Chloe's face after Peter Pan's Flight was priceless and exploring Adventure Isle was a lot of fun.
- Perhaps we picked the right day to go, but the crowds and lines weren't bad at all.
- It was super easy to get to via RER A straight from Paris that takes you 100m away from the front entrance.
It was great to be a kid again. I won't have to wait too long though since we are heading to Parc Asterix next week - which should be a more French experience.
2011-06-08
Review on the Run: Sacre Coeur (4 of 5), Notre Dame Cathedral (5 of 5)
Now that we are in Paris - a lot more reviews should be on the way. Day 23 was a beautiful day and we wanted to make the most of it by spending it outside. For those that don't know, we are staying on Ile Saint Louis which is a man made island located right on the Siene. Next to it is the "other" more busy island of Ile de la Cite, home to the Notre Dame Cathedral. Since we had to take the Metro at Cite to get to Montmartre anyways, we took the opportunity to go to Notre Dame before heading out to see Sacre Coeur. Here is a link to our itinerary.
Sacre Coeur (4 of 5)
How to repent for all the liberal sins of the French after getting a beatdown by the Germans and Prussians? Build a massive cathedral on the highest hilltop! It took 44 years (1875 - 1919) to build this behemoth and is situated on top of Paris' highest hill (Montmartre). Upon arrival, Sacre Coeur makes a great first impression. You can climb up the steps and series of switchbacks of Monmartre towards Sacre Coeur, but we took the funiculaire (gondola) instead since we had kids. If you don't have kids, I'd highly recommend making the walk up. Now it is impossible not to draw comparisons to St. Paul's in London since it is the same style. In this respect, Sacre Coeur failed to impress me on many fronts. The condition of the place is not nearly as mint condition (even though it is newer) than St.Paul's. The Crypt, for which they charge, is a waste of time and money. Save your 4 Euros and skip it. It feels more like a Costco warehouse as opposed to the Da Vinci codish atmosphere at St.Paul's. There are two things however that Sacre Coeur does excel in though. First off, Montmartre is truly a great park. Beware though that this it is a seedy area around here with aggressive sales people. Second is the view from the top of the dome. Pay your 4 Euros to climb the 300 steps to the top for the best view of Paris bar none. Some may argue the Eiffel Tower is king but for the lines and price, I would disagree. Overall - a good cathedral, but I've been so spoiled by Westminster, St.Paul's and Notre Dame that Sacre Coeur seems a notch well below those three.
Notre Dame Cathedral (5 of 5)
Ok. Bottom line is that this is the best cathedral that I've been to in my entire life. I'd be surprised to find a better one in the world. Again - if anyone has found one and disagrees, please let me know! The Cathedral of Notre Dame, home to Quasimodo, literally translates to "Our Lady" or what I like to call the "There's Something About Mary" Cathedral where Mary reigns supreme in this 700 year old building. Just to show how important this cathedral is, Notre Dame is considered the center of the city and all Arrondissements (city areas) are based on a starting point of Notre Dame. So is it over-hyped? I can safely say no. Notre Dame has it all. From a quiet playground and park in the back, a huge square in the front, beautiful views from the Siene, impeccable upkeep inside and out, amazing gothic arches, detailed stained glass, the list goes on. This is a slam dunk must see if you are in Paris.
2011-06-05
Review on the Run: St. Fagans Open Air Museum and Castle (5 out of 5)
St. Fagans is the National History Museum of Wales. It includes a large open-air musuem as well a castle. The open-air museum frequently has live actors and activities such as blacksmithing, throwing pots, or whatever else you can find in a Welsh village. There is livestock, herb gardens, even a mill, and a bakery that bakes bread made from flour in the mill. You can easily spend a whole day here. This site is not only very well-done, fun, and educational, it is also free!
There is something here for everyone. The grown-ups liked the Castle gardens, complete with ponds, rocks, and acres of flowers, green grass and trees. Baby Isaac liked the farm animals, and got to pet some friendly sheep. Chloe and Michael chased around in the cock-fighting pit. The scones with clotted cream and jam were delicious. The Welsh houses were fun to explore, like seeing how people and animals used to live in one house together and part of their heating technology is body heat from the animals. Houses are very dark and low, so watch out if you have transitional glasses. The castle is more of a manor house than a castle, and there isn't much inside other than a good pit stop for a bathroom break while exploring the charming grounds outside.
All in all, a very impressive place.
There is something here for everyone. The grown-ups liked the Castle gardens, complete with ponds, rocks, and acres of flowers, green grass and trees. Baby Isaac liked the farm animals, and got to pet some friendly sheep. Chloe and Michael chased around in the cock-fighting pit. The scones with clotted cream and jam were delicious. The Welsh houses were fun to explore, like seeing how people and animals used to live in one house together and part of their heating technology is body heat from the animals. Houses are very dark and low, so watch out if you have transitional glasses. The castle is more of a manor house than a castle, and there isn't much inside other than a good pit stop for a bathroom break while exploring the charming grounds outside.
All in all, a very impressive place.
Review on the Run: Castell Coch (3.5 out of 5)
Castell Coch is a 19th century castle built upon an existing 13th century castle ruins.
We started the journey from our Cardiff home base, and drive about 15 minutes out to the village of Tongwinglais. We bought some honey from a small local farm, and walked about 30 minutes through a river side forested trail and village streets to the castle.
The castle is somewhat a Victorian fabrication of a small fantasy castle, but is still remarkable to see how rich people build their homes back then. The castle is fully furnished, the walls and ceilings elaborately painted. Compared to the medieval fortresses, this definitely wins in luxury points. The views are beautiful, the rooms are bright (thanks to invention of glass windows and steel hinges), and even comes with chamber pot toilets.
This castle was very fun to explore, and the views and surroundings are beautiful.
We started the journey from our Cardiff home base, and drive about 15 minutes out to the village of Tongwinglais. We bought some honey from a small local farm, and walked about 30 minutes through a river side forested trail and village streets to the castle.
The castle is somewhat a Victorian fabrication of a small fantasy castle, but is still remarkable to see how rich people build their homes back then. The castle is fully furnished, the walls and ceilings elaborately painted. Compared to the medieval fortresses, this definitely wins in luxury points. The views are beautiful, the rooms are bright (thanks to invention of glass windows and steel hinges), and even comes with chamber pot toilets.
This castle was very fun to explore, and the views and surroundings are beautiful.
Review on the Run: Caerphilly Castle (4 out of 5)
Caerphilly castle is the mighty medieval castle with a large moat that we used to draw as kids. It is the largest castle in Britain after Windsor castle, and is in a surprisingly well-preserved state considering that no major alterations have been made to it since the 13th century. It is important for representing a pure example of medieval military architecture, such as the use of concentric buildings, and the large-scale use of water.
We started our journey from our Cardiff home base, and took a 20-minute train-ride over to Caerphilly. The walk there was lined with ordinary shops such as Tesco Express, or bakeries, but as soon as we turned the corner, the castle was so large it seemed to be in your face. The entire castle grounds, including the paths and benchs across the moat, makes for a great stroll and picnic.
The Great Hall inside is still being used for weddings. You can browse through most the castle inside, though most of the rooms are empty, dim, and, cold. It wouldn't be my first choice to live in, though if I was being shot at by giant siege engines, I would feel pretty safe. You can see the incredibly thick walls in the leaning tower. There is a lot of room for kids to run around and explore, and grassy patches to sit on and relax.
This is a very impressive sight. Definitely a must-see for all ages.
We started our journey from our Cardiff home base, and took a 20-minute train-ride over to Caerphilly. The walk there was lined with ordinary shops such as Tesco Express, or bakeries, but as soon as we turned the corner, the castle was so large it seemed to be in your face. The entire castle grounds, including the paths and benchs across the moat, makes for a great stroll and picnic.
The Great Hall inside is still being used for weddings. You can browse through most the castle inside, though most of the rooms are empty, dim, and, cold. It wouldn't be my first choice to live in, though if I was being shot at by giant siege engines, I would feel pretty safe. You can see the incredibly thick walls in the leaning tower. There is a lot of room for kids to run around and explore, and grassy patches to sit on and relax.
This is a very impressive sight. Definitely a must-see for all ages.
2011-06-03
Weekly Wackies: Week 2
Here are some interesting tidbits:
- When asked how she pulled her elbow, Chloe said, "I was trying to put my arm around the back of my head to touch my belly button"
- Tonight Chloe and Michael were cracking up for a very very long time because they were trying to feed daddy Fish Poo.
- Costco, Krispy Kreme, and Walmart (Asda) made it into Cardiff!
- At Costco, they sell Haggis!
- We found out there is an IKEA in Brunei. How they can support an IKEA beats me.
- There are no garbage cans at the train stations in London "for security reasons". I was holding a banana peel and wandering around the whole station, and finally a worker told me to toss the peel on the floor. Hope no one tripped over it?
- London recycling program sucks. They don't recycle plastic bags, tetrapaks, margarine tubs, shampoo bottles... list goes on. Shameful! Cardiff, on the other hand, is impressive. They split out the biodegradable waste, recyclables, and much less garbage is put out.
- In UK, if trains are late, they cancel them to avoid paying a fine. That's why a bunch we were missing a bunch of trains today.
- Welsh word for carrot is "moron".
- We bought Faggots at the Farmer's Market just for the name. They turned out to be quite tasty and are basically big meatballs made from ground lamb meat.
- Using a keyboard with a UK layout is annoying. There are subtle but significant differences.
- When asked how she pulled her elbow, Chloe said, "I was trying to put my arm around the back of my head to touch my belly button"
- Tonight Chloe and Michael were cracking up for a very very long time because they were trying to feed daddy Fish Poo.
- Costco, Krispy Kreme, and Walmart (Asda) made it into Cardiff!
- At Costco, they sell Haggis!
- We found out there is an IKEA in Brunei. How they can support an IKEA beats me.
- There are no garbage cans at the train stations in London "for security reasons". I was holding a banana peel and wandering around the whole station, and finally a worker told me to toss the peel on the floor. Hope no one tripped over it?
- London recycling program sucks. They don't recycle plastic bags, tetrapaks, margarine tubs, shampoo bottles... list goes on. Shameful! Cardiff, on the other hand, is impressive. They split out the biodegradable waste, recyclables, and much less garbage is put out.
- In UK, if trains are late, they cancel them to avoid paying a fine. That's why a bunch we were missing a bunch of trains today.
- Welsh word for carrot is "moron".
- We bought Faggots at the Farmer's Market just for the name. They turned out to be quite tasty and are basically big meatballs made from ground lamb meat.
- Using a keyboard with a UK layout is annoying. There are subtle but significant differences.
2011-06-01
10 Years and Counting
On June 2, 2011, Siew and I will be celebrating 10 years of marriage. I'm back with another bad poem to mark the occasion and in record time (54 minutes - hence the quality). I'll be here all week - try the veal.
10 Years and Counting
It was exactly two years ago
Since I did something like this.
Wrote a poem and posted it
Called "8 Years of Bliss".
To celebrate our time together
To put a little spotlight.
About Siew the princess
And Victor the knight.
A little embarrassed after the post
She told me never to do it again.
So I said "Sure thing babe."
But I never specified when... ;)
Since then much has happened
Almost immediately came good fortune.
First Chloe learned to speak English
And we found out we were having a son!
Nine months blasted by
38, 39, finally 40 weeks had past.
Since Chloe was born in only 75 minutes
We were expecting the second to be just as fast.
On the night of the birth though
After reaching top gear to reach the Foothills.
Instead of the lightning fast and short delivery
They said it'd be a while so sit still.
"Here's an IV so go for a walk.
Please come back in 4 hours" they said.
Since Siew didn't want to wait that long
They had dinner at the Red Water Grill instead.
After we sat down and looked at the menu
The waitress asked us "May I take your order?"
I said, "I'll have the steak, she'll have the fish.
Oh, BTW my wife is in labour."
As you can imagine the service was fast
To send us on our way.
We headed back and Isaac popped out
Which concluded an eventful day.
I'll admit at first that we had our doubts
About Chloe and the jealousy factor.
But the first time she saw him, she hugged him and said
"I always love my baby brother."
Now a proud father of two
In a growing family of four.
With life being perfect
There's nothing I could ask for more.
Except... a trip, yes a trip
To maybe live abroad and all that bit.
We've joked about going many a times
And finally said "Let's just go and do it."
In life you only get a few chances
To have the stars align perfectly.
In these cases we firmly believe
That everyone should seize the opportunity.
Immediately we began scheming
To go far far away from here.
Something we've always wanted to do
But before we always had fear.
We were chicken to quit our jobs
Or take a sabbatical like some do
Wouldn't it be cool to roam the Earth
Like that Cain dude in Kung Fu?
But where to go? A good question!
We could discuss enough to fill a whole thesis.
Thinking of food, romance, then food again
We simultaneously blurted out "Paris".
We're on our trip now traveling through
England, France, and a stop in Cardiff.
Between Isaac, Chloe, and especially Siew
There's nobody I'd rather be with.
Siew is the best Mother and Wife,
Is selfless, compassionate, and giving.
Siew - Here's to 16 years together and a 2001 wedding
That makes it 10 years of marriage and counting.
10 Years and Counting
It was exactly two years ago
Since I did something like this.
Wrote a poem and posted it
Called "8 Years of Bliss".
To celebrate our time together
To put a little spotlight.
About Siew the princess
And Victor the knight.
A little embarrassed after the post
She told me never to do it again.
So I said "Sure thing babe."
But I never specified when... ;)
Since then much has happened
Almost immediately came good fortune.
First Chloe learned to speak English
And we found out we were having a son!
Nine months blasted by
38, 39, finally 40 weeks had past.
Since Chloe was born in only 75 minutes
We were expecting the second to be just as fast.
On the night of the birth though
After reaching top gear to reach the Foothills.
Instead of the lightning fast and short delivery
They said it'd be a while so sit still.
"Here's an IV so go for a walk.
Please come back in 4 hours" they said.
Since Siew didn't want to wait that long
They had dinner at the Red Water Grill instead.
After we sat down and looked at the menu
The waitress asked us "May I take your order?"
I said, "I'll have the steak, she'll have the fish.
Oh, BTW my wife is in labour."
As you can imagine the service was fast
To send us on our way.
We headed back and Isaac popped out
Which concluded an eventful day.
I'll admit at first that we had our doubts
About Chloe and the jealousy factor.
But the first time she saw him, she hugged him and said
"I always love my baby brother."
Now a proud father of two
In a growing family of four.
With life being perfect
There's nothing I could ask for more.
Except... a trip, yes a trip
To maybe live abroad and all that bit.
We've joked about going many a times
And finally said "Let's just go and do it."
In life you only get a few chances
To have the stars align perfectly.
In these cases we firmly believe
That everyone should seize the opportunity.
Immediately we began scheming
To go far far away from here.
Something we've always wanted to do
But before we always had fear.
We were chicken to quit our jobs
Or take a sabbatical like some do
Wouldn't it be cool to roam the Earth
Like that Cain dude in Kung Fu?
But where to go? A good question!
We could discuss enough to fill a whole thesis.
Thinking of food, romance, then food again
We simultaneously blurted out "Paris".
We're on our trip now traveling through
England, France, and a stop in Cardiff.
Between Isaac, Chloe, and especially Siew
There's nobody I'd rather be with.
Siew is the best Mother and Wife,
Is selfless, compassionate, and giving.
Siew - Here's to 16 years together and a 2001 wedding
That makes it 10 years of marriage and counting.
2011-05-31
Living like the Locals: Wales Emergency Room
We woke up this morning to a blood curdling SCREEEEEAAAAAAMMMMM!!!! Chloe pulled her elbow again, from sleeping on her arm funny. The intense sword fighting and re-enactment of Pirates of the Caribbean with her older cousin Michael last night probably didn't help.
Incidents like these is the reason why we picked UK and France for our travels -- for their health care system. Though we wanted to live like the locals, visiting the hospital definitely wasn't on our list.
The Children's hospital was very modest. It was decorated with some children's work and donated toys scattered throughout the room. Service was fast and pleasant, and we were discharged without being requested of insurance info, or filling any other paper work. I think we got a freebie service?
Time to reach hospital: 25 minutes x2
Time to check in: 3 minutes (we have a long home address)
Time to wait for diagnosis: 10 minutes
Time for diagnosis: 5 minutes (had to explain Tylenol is the American equivalent of Carpol)
Time to fix elbow: 2 seconds
Time to wait for closure: 15 minutes
Total time: about 90 minutes
Injury aside, it was a rather pleasant local experience.
Incidents like these is the reason why we picked UK and France for our travels -- for their health care system. Though we wanted to live like the locals, visiting the hospital definitely wasn't on our list.
The Children's hospital was very modest. It was decorated with some children's work and donated toys scattered throughout the room. Service was fast and pleasant, and we were discharged without being requested of insurance info, or filling any other paper work. I think we got a freebie service?
Time to reach hospital: 25 minutes x2
Time to check in: 3 minutes (we have a long home address)
Time to wait for diagnosis: 10 minutes
Time for diagnosis: 5 minutes (had to explain Tylenol is the American equivalent of Carpol)
Time to fix elbow: 2 seconds
Time to wait for closure: 15 minutes
Total time: about 90 minutes
Injury aside, it was a rather pleasant local experience.
2011-05-30
Review on the Run: Cardiff Castle (3.5 of 5)
Our first full day in Cardiff (Day 13) called for the Cardiff Farmer's Market for some good eats and fresh produce, in addition to Cardiff Castle - the star attraction of Cardiff. Here is a link to our itinerary. One note about the Farmer's Market here is that there seems to noticeabley be a price difference when compared to Canada. More specifically, there doesn't seem to be a huge mark-up at a Farmer's Market here. Some items are cheaper, others are more expensive. In Canada, you tend to pay a 40% premium on market items when compared to supermarkets.
Cardiff Castle (3.5 of 5)
The original fort was built by the Romans in 55 AD which is now the site of the Norman Keep which was built in 1091 that stands at the center of the expanded grounds. This was basically it in terms of Cardiff Castle until 1868 when the addition of the Victoria House took place and several additions to the grounds that make up the large grounds that also include castle walls. In terms of the site - it is a perfect picture type castle that I was sort of expecting more at the Tower of London. It's a but unfortunate for our timing though as we missed one of the premier events at Cardiff Castle. It is a Jousting event that will take place on June 19 that features a real jousting tournament, trebuchet firings, and sword fights. This reminds me of the Tournament of Kings show that we saw in Las Vegas' Excalibur Hotel back in 1999 - except it takes place in a real castle! If you do happen to come to Cardiff, this castle is a must and lived up to all my expectations.
Cardiff Castle (3.5 of 5)
The original fort was built by the Romans in 55 AD which is now the site of the Norman Keep which was built in 1091 that stands at the center of the expanded grounds. This was basically it in terms of Cardiff Castle until 1868 when the addition of the Victoria House took place and several additions to the grounds that make up the large grounds that also include castle walls. In terms of the site - it is a perfect picture type castle that I was sort of expecting more at the Tower of London. It's a but unfortunate for our timing though as we missed one of the premier events at Cardiff Castle. It is a Jousting event that will take place on June 19 that features a real jousting tournament, trebuchet firings, and sword fights. This reminds me of the Tournament of Kings show that we saw in Las Vegas' Excalibur Hotel back in 1999 - except it takes place in a real castle! If you do happen to come to Cardiff, this castle is a must and lived up to all my expectations.
2011-05-29
Paddington Bear At Paddington Station
I don't think I've ever met anyone that hasn't seen the image of Paddington Bear at least once in their lifetime. But do you know the story? This all came about when I mentioned to the relatives in Cardiff about our adventure on the train taking off from Paddington Train Station in London to Cardiff Central. At the train station, they have a store "Paddington Bear at Paddington Station" along with a bronze statue of the bear. Siew's cousins told me the neat story which I never knew until last night - over some Pimm's No.3, Spiced Vodka, homemade Eggnog etc... so if I explain the story wrong you know why. In any event, the story goes that at Paddington train station a long time ago, the actual Paddington Bear was found and it was lost by a child from Peru while on a visit to London. So they named the bear after the train station. Kind of a neat story - with a sudden twist. I've done some browsing on the internet, and this story apparently is the made up one taken from the first Paddington Bear storyline that has now become generally believed across the board. I guess the true story is that the original author, Michael Bond, wrote the story of Paddington Bear when he saw a lone stuffed teddy bear on a shelf (which he bought) at Paddington Station in London. Either way a great little story that will make me want to sign out the original when I get back home.
BTW - the ride to Cardiff and my experience with the European train system was all good. Super cheap ($50 CDN for First Class tickets to Cardiff) and quite a lot of fun, although the trains are showing their age a bit. It's still tough to beat Japan. How the Japanese stay on time to the very minute 99% of the time (as claimed by Japan Rail and witnessed by us when we were there) is one great mystery and their Shinkansen is still the best I've been on.
BTW - the ride to Cardiff and my experience with the European train system was all good. Super cheap ($50 CDN for First Class tickets to Cardiff) and quite a lot of fun, although the trains are showing their age a bit. It's still tough to beat Japan. How the Japanese stay on time to the very minute 99% of the time (as claimed by Japan Rail and witnessed by us when we were there) is one great mystery and their Shinkansen is still the best I've been on.
2011-05-27
London - One of the World's Greatest Cities
So today we will depart London for Cardiff, Wales to see some family before heading off to France for another 6 weeks. I had little preconceptions about the city before coming here but am glad I did and am sad to go. I think Rick Steve's put it best when he talks about London and describes exactly the way I feel about the city:
"London is more than its museums and landmarks. It's a living, breathing, thriving organism... a coral reek of humanity."
Construction is everywhere in anticipation of the 2012 Olympics. It's funny - we went to Athens (2001) and Beijing (2006) before they hosted Olympics as well. I guess the advertisers have done their job well! I was surprised at how "un-English" it really is here. English seems to be the city's second language and the visible minority population is vast. The whole city seems foreign, yet comfortable for me. I believe the diverse population had a big influence on this. Although it is great to see the Big Ben's and Westminster Abbey's to say you've been there (and London has enough landmarks and museums to fill your plate non-stop for 2 weeks), like always though our fondest memories will be the sights and sounds of the people we have met during "normal life" that we will remember.
I've heard many reviews from people that have been to both London and Paris and each one seems to love one OR the other. Never both. I'm interested to find out the differences. Well, I love London and have really high hopes for Paris. I hope that I will be the first.
Siew and I have been fortunate enough to go to some of the world's "mega cities" which I consider metro areas of at least 5 million (or the top 50 metro areas in the world by population). Here is a list that I like to refer to. It's always interesting to see how each country and culture adapts to staggering numbers of people. Some examples of places that Siew and I have been to together that fall into this category are: Tokyo, Osaka/Kobe, Shanghai, Beijing, L.A., and Toronto. Right now - I'd rank London in my top 3 with Osaka/Kobe holding the top spot. If there was one knock on London is that the food is mediocre, which is one area that I value a lot. Not bad. Not spectacular. Just middle of the road. Maybe it's because we're relying on Chowhound too much, but I've had better Indian in Calgary (yikes!) and better Asian in Richmond (which is world class). On the flip side though - the traditional pub fare is truly remarkable. That being said, there is only so much my stomach can take of constant deep fried food.
Since I've been trying to be diligent in posting reviews, I thought I'd post two distinct top 5 lists. One - if I were visiting without kids. The other - if you do have little ones which really focuses on interesting things to keep the kids engaged while satisfying your craving for some culture at the same time. Note that this includes only stuff that we actually got to do.
Top 5 of London Without Kids
Top 5 of London With Kids
"London is more than its museums and landmarks. It's a living, breathing, thriving organism... a coral reek of humanity."
Construction is everywhere in anticipation of the 2012 Olympics. It's funny - we went to Athens (2001) and Beijing (2006) before they hosted Olympics as well. I guess the advertisers have done their job well! I was surprised at how "un-English" it really is here. English seems to be the city's second language and the visible minority population is vast. The whole city seems foreign, yet comfortable for me. I believe the diverse population had a big influence on this. Although it is great to see the Big Ben's and Westminster Abbey's to say you've been there (and London has enough landmarks and museums to fill your plate non-stop for 2 weeks), like always though our fondest memories will be the sights and sounds of the people we have met during "normal life" that we will remember.
I've heard many reviews from people that have been to both London and Paris and each one seems to love one OR the other. Never both. I'm interested to find out the differences. Well, I love London and have really high hopes for Paris. I hope that I will be the first.
Siew and I have been fortunate enough to go to some of the world's "mega cities" which I consider metro areas of at least 5 million (or the top 50 metro areas in the world by population). Here is a list that I like to refer to. It's always interesting to see how each country and culture adapts to staggering numbers of people. Some examples of places that Siew and I have been to together that fall into this category are: Tokyo, Osaka/Kobe, Shanghai, Beijing, L.A., and Toronto. Right now - I'd rank London in my top 3 with Osaka/Kobe holding the top spot. If there was one knock on London is that the food is mediocre, which is one area that I value a lot. Not bad. Not spectacular. Just middle of the road. Maybe it's because we're relying on Chowhound too much, but I've had better Indian in Calgary (yikes!) and better Asian in Richmond (which is world class). On the flip side though - the traditional pub fare is truly remarkable. That being said, there is only so much my stomach can take of constant deep fried food.
Since I've been trying to be diligent in posting reviews, I thought I'd post two distinct top 5 lists. One - if I were visiting without kids. The other - if you do have little ones which really focuses on interesting things to keep the kids engaged while satisfying your craving for some culture at the same time. Note that this includes only stuff that we actually got to do.
Top 5 of London Without Kids
- Tower of London - The best all-around attraction in London steeped in history and a boat load of cool activities.
- British Museum - The best museum in the world. Period.
- St.Paul's Cathedral - Da Vinci Codish atmosphere really adds to the impact of the place.
- Westminster Abbey - Organ recital will be one of my fond memories. Stained glass work is out of this world.
- Natural History Museum - The best of its kind and the second best museum I've seen in London.
Top 5 of London With Kids
- Hyde Park - Between the wide open spaces, and the playgrounds and Palaces, it is the best way to enjoy a nice day out with your kids in London.
- Tower of London - Jewels, Torture, Amour, Swords, and Cannons. If this doesn't do the sell job for your kids nothing will.
- London Eye - Impossible for the kids NOT to like an over-sized ferris wheel right?
- Natural History Museum - Dinosaurs are the star, but there is something for every kid - and all displays are world class.
- Science Museum - Despite it's confusing mish mash of stuff, all will keep your kids busy for a loooooooooong time.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)